Driving in Costa Rica can be an incredible experience, provided you know what to expect – or incredibly frustrating, if you go in unprepared. We rented a car on our most recent Costa Rica trip and loved traveling around on our on schedule, a bit more spontaneously, and taking in all the sights we encountered along the way.
We felt driving in Costa Rica is safe, and never found driving in Costa Rica stressful – even though we actually visited during the rainy season. But we are Italian, and we are used to driving in stressful situation, on roads that can be very windy or narrow.
Costa Rica is small enough that – if you have your own car – you can drive around in two or three weeks and hit all the main places to visit.
You’ll be able to reach places in the Nicoya Peninsula, and also go to the Orosi Valley and the Osa Peninsula (from where tours to Corcovado National Park depart) to check out the untouched wilderness consisting of jungle, secluded coastline and unique wildlife. You will be able to visit Costa Rica national parks independently.
But if you have more time, you will be happy to get off the beaten path too (though mind you, some places can’t be accessed by car at all).
If are curious to know what driving in Costa Rica is like, you are in the right place. My sister and I rented a car during our most recent trip, and I am about to share everything you should know for a smooth experience.
Make sure to also read my post What You Need To Know Before Renting A Car In Costa Rica.
What You Must Know About Driving In Costa Rica
Driving is on the right
Let’s start with the most important piece of information here. Driving is done on the right in Costa Rica – which is what you will be used to if you are from the United States, Canada or continental Europe.
However, it is other way around if you are accustomed to driving in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia or South Africa, to name a few. In that case, you may want to definitely opt for an automatic car versus one with manual transmission, as it will make your life much easier!
Want to have an idea of prices of car rental in Costa Rica? I recommend checking Discover Cars – it is a comparison site that gives an idea of prices of car rental by various companies, and makes booking super easy. You can also read reviews of the car rental company there!
You will need a valid driver’s license
Foreigners wishing to drive in Costa Rica don’t need to have an international driver’s license. However, you will need a valid license from your home country and your passport with a valid tourist stamp – if this expires, you’re no longer eligible to drive in the country.
By way of example, my sister and I (we both drove) went to the car rental offices with a valid driver’s license from the European Union, and we were not asked any question.
Keep in mind that the legal age for driving in Costa Rica is 18, but most car rental agencies will only allow you to drive if you are between 21 and 23.
Rules of the road in Costa Rica
Most of the driving rules in Costa Rica are similar to those you will find in your home country. Here are the basic ones you need to observe:
- Wear your seatbelt at all times – that includes in the back seat;
- Have a seat for children under 12 – based on their height and weight;
- Wear a helmet if you are driving a motorbike or moped;
- Respect the speed limits – even if locals don’t;
- Don’t use a cell phone unless it’s with a hands-free device;
- Don’t drive under the influence – no insurance will ever cover the costs of an accident you caused because you were drinking and driving. The same goes for drugs of any kind;
- Lock your doors when driving.
These are basic rules that aren’t always enforced by locals. You will see them going around by motorbike without wearing helmets, and in rural areas there will sometimes be 3 or even 4 passengers or a motorbike. But that doesn’t mean you should not follow them.
Road signs and customs when driving in Costa Rica
Road signs in Costa Rica are in Spanish, but they are quite self explanatory and not too different from those you’d find in your home-country in terms of design.
The main difference it that they are adapted to the local environment. So for example where you see a sign for animals crossing in Costa Rica, it is likely to have the picture of a monkey or a sloth!
Other than that, here are some road signs to be aware of:
- Alto – Stop
- Despacio – Slow
- Desvio – Detour
- Ceda el paso – give way / yield
- No hay paso – no entry
- Una via – one way
One useful thing to remember is that Costa Rica uses the metric system, so road signs referring to speed limit will be in kilometers per hour and not miles per hour.
Here are some other customs you may want to take a note of:
- It’s customary to honk lightly as you pass someone so they know you are there;
- It’s customary for truck drivers or slower cars to blink their left bliker and stick a hand out and wave at you to let you know you can pass;
- It’s customary, once you have passed, to blink your emergency lights shortly as a way of saying thank you.
- It’s customary for drivers to use a system of headlight signals to indicate to other drivers of hazards on the road ahead: a quick / short light, followed by a longer one indicates police along the way (and may help you avoid a ticket); flashing lights also means animals crossing the road, or obstructions on the road.
Last but definitely not least let me talk about passing, as this can be particularly tricky in Costa Rica especially when you are driving on narrow and windy roads with just one lane.
First of all, you are not obliged to pass: only do it if you are 100% comfortable with it and if you are confident you can go, even if the car in front of you is passing and even if the car behind you it tailgating you.
If you are ready to pass (and the slower vehicle in front of you is giving you the go ahead with its blinkers or by waving), signal that with your blinkers and double check nobody behind you is already passing by looking at your mirrors before you go.
What to do if you get a (speeding) ticket or have an accident in Costa Rica
First of all, you really should not speed when driving in Costa Rica – not even if locals regularly do, and not even if you speed up because someone is tailgating you. This is pretty much a custom in Costa Rica, lots of drivers do it. I am probably more used to it as I am Italian, but alas the way to react to someone tailgating you is not to speed, as you may end up getting a ticket.
Speeding tickets in Costa Rica can be very expensive (an average of $400 USD!) so you really should avoid them.
If for whatever reason you get a ticket, you will need to pay it to the car rental company – usually when you return the car, but in doubt call them or email them to enquire on what to do.
Failure to pay your ticket may end up in being stopped at the airport / border control on your way out. Remember your car rental is tied to your passport. To avoid embarrassment and any further issue, simply pay your ticket.
In the unfortunate event you get in an accident, the number to call for emergencies in Costa Rica is 911 and they have a dedicated line in English. Make sure to also call your car rental company’s emergency line in case you are unsure about what to do. You should also be aware of people insisting on helping you as they may be trying to scam you.
What to do if the police stops you
It’s not uncommon for the police to make random checks in Costa Rica – in this sense, it’s very much like in Italy. If you get pulled over, remain calm. You will see that the police officers are very kind and polite, like anyone else in Costa Rica.
If you don’t speak Spanish, say “No hablo Español” and they will make sure to find a way of communicating: most people in Costa Rica speak some English, and where language skills are lacking, incredible people’s skills take over.
You will likely be asked to hand over your drivers license, your passport and your visa (in most cases, it will just be a stamp on your passport).
Unless you were / are doing something wrong, you really have nothing to worry about! Indeed, most of the time the police is looking for something such as alcohol, drugs, etc., and once they establish everything is ok they will let you go.
If the police gives you a ticket, but you think that the ticket you are receiving is not legit, remember that in case it is you will have to pay it when returning your rental car.
Finally, keep in mind bribing police officers is not acceptable in Costa Rica and may put you in a lot of trouble. Likewise, if a police officer tries to bribe you make a note of his name, badge ID, car plate and report him.
Road conditions in Costa Rica
Road conditions in Costa Rica vary depending on the location and on the season. In the cities, roads are paved but, because signs are in Spanish, this could create some confusion if you neglect to learn what they mean before getting behind the wheel.
Roundabouts are tricky in San Jose and the lack of painted lines and turning signals make them trickier. Simply take your time and ignore the drivers behind you who’ll likely be honking and making hand gestures for you to hurry up!
The highways outside the cities are quite narrow with few lanes. We noticed that in most cases it’s just a 2-lanes road, one for each direction of traffic. You sometimes get 3 lanes, usually two are for the traffic going uphill so that the faster cars can pass, but the outer lane ends once you get to the top of the hill, so if you are driving on the right / outer lane you’ll find yourself quickly switching lanes.
Pay attention to signs on the pavements as those normally indicate whether you need to change lanes. Sometimes the lanes end abruptly (and with no signage to point that out) and you’ll need to suddenly merge to remain on the highway.
Watch out for pesky, poorly-marked speed bumps! In fact, I want to say that most speed bumps (which are usually located in residential areas) are not marked at all, either by a sign immediately before or by color. I recommend simply slowing down as much as possible when you are driving around residential areas, to avoid destroying your car!
In rural areas, potholes and rough patches are common as are narrow roads with no guard rails whatsoever.
The mountain chain that passes through the centre of Costa Rica is very windy and if you are on a bus or shuttle you will be getting car sick quite a bit. Our first part of the trip was on a guided tour and every time we had a long drive those in the group prone to motion sickness (including my sister!) had to sit at the front of the vehicle or take dramamine to avoid being (too) sick!
One good reason to drive in Costa Rica is definitely avoiding the motion sickness – with your own car, you can take those hairpin turns at your own pace.
Finally, some very remote areas of Costa Rica, such as Tortuguero, are not accessible by car at all – but these are some of the nicest areas of the country. I suppose, the fact that they are so remote and unaccessible by car is part of their charme!
Toll roads
We came across a few toll roads when we were driving in Costa Rica, especially on the way out of San Jose on Route 27, and on the Pacific Coast for example around Jaco. We never felt they were expensive.
Toll roads are usually signaled beforehand. The sign will say “Peaje” and will have a list of the various prices depending on what vehicle you are driving. Unless you are driving a minivan or a motorbike, you need to go on the “Automóviles liviano” (regular cars) lane.
The “quick pass” lane is for cars that have a toll pass.
You can pay for toll roads by cash or card. Using card will give you a pretty poor exchange rate but if you don’t have local currency (Colones) it’s probably easier. If you intend to use cash, I recommend using Colones and not US Dollars. If you use USD, you will be given change back in Colones and the exchange rate is quite bad.
To pay, you simply have to go to the lane for the type of vehicle you are driving. There will be a gate. Once you stop, just hand cash to the person at the booth. After you pay and get your change, the gate will lift and you can drive through.
Gas stations in Costa Rica
The Spanish word for gas station is “gasolinera” but you will find that locals in Costa Rica they refer to is as “bomba” and in fact this is how you will sometimes see it written too (for example, the gas station in Puerto Jimenez where we filled up is marked as “Bomba Jimenez”).
Gas stations are found throughout the country but are definitely more sparse in rural areas, so it’s always a good idea to fill up your tank when you can. The price of gasoline is actually regulated by the government, so you don’t have to worry about finding a cheaper deal at another station.
While petrol is definitely more expensive than in the United States, it’s also much cheaper than it is in Europe (or at least, Italy).
The price of gas you see displayed in gas stations in Costa Rica is per liter, not per gallon.
You won’t find self-service stations so there will be someone filling up the tank for you – that’s a 24 hours service. You can pay in cash, but credit or debit card are also accepted (and you can choose to pay in both USD or Colones).
You have the option to fill with regular and super gasoline and diesel – most rental cars run on regular, but make sure to double check with your car rental company.
Traffic in Costa Rica
Generally speaking, traffic in Costa Rica is not bad – at least not if you are accustomed to the congested traffic of European capitals, or of large cities in the US. Having said that, traffic can be quite bad in and around San José.
We came across an accident on the way out of San José when we took a day trip, and had to go around a few blocks to get out of the traffic jam.
If you are in the capital, it is best to avoid rush hour traffic because the roads are packed with drivers hurrying to get to work. In rural areas, the traffic is lighter and the driving is more laid back but you’ll have to contend with horrible road conditions in some places, and road works that cause prolonged stops as there’s only one viable lane to drive.
Bike lanes aren’t a common sight anywhere in the country so expect to see lots of bikes on city roads traveling in the same lanes as heavy traffic – not ideal, I know. And if you are driving through San José, definitely keep your eyes open for motorbikes zipping through traffic!
While there may be fewer cars on the roads in rural areas, you’ll find other obstacles that will force you to slow down. Sidewalks are non-existent in most places so pedestrians often walk on the road and it’s common to see chickens and even dogs. You may even come across cows or iguanas, and a guide told us he once has to stop for a sloth to cross the road!
What are Tico drivers like?
The driving in Costa Rica tends to be fast and aggressive and this is most noticeable in congested urban areas. You’ll witness drivers tailgating, passing when they shouldn’t and ignoring right-of-way rules.
We are Italian so we are used to aggressive driving, but there were a couple of occasions we were actually startled! I was driving around Uvita, and I was looking for a specific restaurant. Once found, I had to park the car and used the blinker to point I was going to turn left.
Apparently though blinkers are meaningless in Costa Rica. Indeed, regardless of that, a small truck was ready to drive past me. It took a firm honking from me to finally stop him from doing so!
This is to say: keep your eyes open!
Being assertive is definitely the way to go when driving in Costa Rica, but by all means try to obey local driving regulations as much as possible (ie with regards to speed limit) to avoid any issues (and fines).
One-lane bridges
One-lane bridges are actually quite common in some parts of Italy – they certainly are in Sardinia – so they were not a big surprise for us when we drove in Costa Rica. However, they may be a new thing for you.
These bridges were literally built this way to save on costs, and the outcome is that cars have to take their turns to get on it.
Most typically, whoever gets to the bridge first has the right of way. You will see that cars going on the same direction will get on the bridge at once. Once they are done crossing, cars coming from the other direction can go. There often is also a sign close to the bridge that shows whoever has the right of way (cars driving in your same direction, or the opposite).
Driving in Costa Rica during the rainy season
Some people would completely avoid traveling to Costa Rica in the rainy season (from May to November included). Well, guess what: we did, and had a blast. And we paid a fraction of the price for many activities and hotels.
Driving in Costa Rica during the rainy season is totally doable, as long as you accept that there will be times when you will have to slow down, take an alternative road, or simply be unable to visit a place.
We actually never had an issue and not once the rain stopped us. However, if you decide to rent a car for your Costa Rica trip in the rainy season, really be considerate while driving as the road conditions can be worse than expected, and there can be landslides or river overflowing causing road blockages.
For example, the day we came back from Corcovado we learned upon hopping on the boat at La Sirena station that nobody could actually walk back to Carare and then take the car to Puerto Jimenez, because heavy rain the night before caused the river to swell and overflow, making it impossible to cross even with a 4WD.
If you just let your hotel receptionist know where you intend to drive, he or she will be able to tell you of any road blockages.
Should you cross rivers with your car?
As I have said above, a major obstacle you may face if you venture into remote areas of the country is river crossings. Sometimes after heavy rains and flash floods, rivers can overflow and swamp roads.
I don’t recommend crossing a river with a car rental, unless you have a 4WD and really know what you are doing. If you have any doubt that your car will make it across, it’s best to turn around.
Before you attempt to cross, remember that your car insurance will not cover water damage. And by all means remember never to turn your car engine off while crossing the river!
Is a 4WD necessary to drive in Costa Rica?
Others will suggest that a 4WD is absolutely necessary when driving in Costa Rica. Honestly though, this is totally up to you and the itinerary you intend to follow. If you are sticking to the highway and main roads through villages, you won’t need a 4WD.
If, on the other hand, you intend to get to more rural or mountainous areas with lots of dirt roads, steep uphills and off the beaten path, it may be worth paying a bit more for your peace of mind.
We did not have a 4WD and visited in the rainy season and never felt we needed one, but we mostly kept to the main roads and a few easy dirt roads.
Driving at night in Costa Rica
The only night driving we did in Costa Rica was to get to a restaurant that was a bit far from our hotel. In fact, I don’t recommend driving in Costa Rica at night, especially during the rainy season when there’s a danger of flash floods and washed-out roads.
In rural areas, there’s a lack of street lights which makes driving at night even more difficult. There often are bikes, people and at times even animals on the side of the road and they are hard to see with the almost complete lack of illumination.
One thing I shall remind you is that it gets dark by 6:00 pm at the latest in Costa Rica, no matter the season!
Parking in Costa Rica
In San Jose, it’s strongly advised to park only in the paid, guarded parking lots. In the cities, it’s almost impossible to find on-street parking but if you find a spot, make sure it’s not marked in yellow or you’ll get a ticket.
In many places outside the cities, drivers simply park wherever they can find room.
You may also run into watchmen. We saw one in Manuel Antonio who went around tirelessly, asking cars he’d stop randomly on the road whether they needed help finding a parking spot.
These watch-men are independent “security guards” who wear a bright vest and who’ll help you find a parking spot and (in theory) watch your car while you’re gone. They are not official, yet it’s a good idea to leave them a tip as most of them are honest people simply trying to make a living, however don’t rely on them watching your car 100% of the time you are away.
Wherever you park, make sure the area is well-lit, don’t leave any valuables in the car and lock the doors.
Useful apps when driving in Costa Rica
When making your way through Costa Rica on your own, there are some helpful apps to assist you along the way.
Some people recommend using Waze, a user-generated service that in theory works better than Google Maps in Costa Rica. CRMaps is updated frequently and features maps and other information such as tide charts and places of interest.
We used Google Maps and Apple’s Maps on a regular basis and never had an issue finding the places we were looking for, but it’s a good idea to download the maps when you have Wi-Fi as lots of areas don’t have cell-phone service when in Costa Rica.
One thing you may notice when driving in Costa Rica is that addresses are often very vague – along the lines of “2 blocks north from the main church” or “200 yards from the main square”. This is literally how addresses are written in Costa Rica. Usually, simply entering the name of your final destination (hotel, restaurant or attraction) in your GPS will take you to the right place.
Further Readings
Are you planning a trip to Costa Rica? These posts should be useful:
- The Best Things To Do In Costa Rica
- The Ultimate Guide To San Jose
- A Quick Guide To Tortuguero
- 10 Best Things To Do In Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
- The Complete Guide To Manuel Antonio National Park
- A Useful Guide To Visiting Nauyaca Waterfalls
- A Guide To The Rio Celeste Waterfalls Hike
- 15 Gorgeous Costa Rica Waterfalls
- What To See And Do In Marino Ballena National Park
- Should You Visit Caño Island?
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