The Best Places To Visit In La Garrotxa, The Volcanic Region of Catalonia

La Garrotxa, the Volcanic Region of Catalonia, is one of the most beautiful, unique yet undiscovered regions of Catalonia. Set between the Pyrenees and Costa Brava, and part of the Girona Pyrenees region, in the province of Girona, La Garrotxa borders with France on the northern parts, and it’s about 120 km from Barcelona and 45 km from Girona.

While the entire world knows Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, and is now getting to know Girona, the best starting point to explore beautiful Costa Brava, not many people know where La Garrota is. I assure you it’s worth visiting, for it is packed with interesting sights, untouched nature, and beautiful villages and small cities. Top this with delicious food and wine, and you will want to go.

Are you curious to find out more? Here, I uncover the places that make La Garrotxa a great travel destination and share useful trip-planning tips. But first of all, why go?

Why Visit La Garroxa?

There are obviously tourists in Garrotxa, but most of them are locals, coming for a day trip or a weekend getaway from Barcelona or from the neighboring regions of France on the other side of the Pyrenees.

And those that visit come prepared, knowing that restaurants may not open at all on a Sunday or that there’s no place to have breakfast on a Monday morning because hotels and coffee shops deserve a rest day as well (yep, that happened to me and it was perfectly ok!).

Only in Besalù (more about it below) were there a bit more visitors, and even then, there was hardly a crowd.

The overall impression you’ll have is that of a place that, throughout time, has managed to retain all of its local character, all the while being very welcoming to visitors.

Another thing that makes this a special place to visit is the welcoming, helpful, and genuine people. They are the kind of people who will stop you in the street if they think you may be lost or will gladly exchange a few words of appreciation for the view (in Catalan, the local language; in Spanish, which they all speak; or in any other way they can find to communicate). 

Finally, La Garrotxa is a great destination for all kinds of travelers. Whether you like hiking or are looking to discover local history and culture, you will find plenty to be entertained for weeks. Solo travelers like myself will find it safe and welcoming, and families with children will find that there are plenty of fun activities to keep even the youngest entertained.

The Best Places To Visit In La Garrotxa

The Villages

Scattered around La Garrotxa are several small and, at times, tiny medieval villages, all nicely preserved and worth exploring. These are the kind of places where you are likely to find reminders of the medieval past, such as narrow cobbled alleys, red roofs, old mills, church squares, and medieval bridges.

Here are the villages you should not skip:

SANT’ESTEVE D’EN BAS—The most important village of the Vall d’en Bas, which was likely founded before the year 900 (the first mention of the village dates back to 904). Its main attraction is the 12th-century church. The views of the village from a distance, when walking to the nearby tiny (and just as pretty) Els Hostalets d’en Bas, are stunning.

HOSTALETS D’EN BAS—The main feature is the pretty balconies decorated with geraniums, but the sight of the church is also quite impressive.

JOANETES—A small village in a beautiful setting, right on the slopes of the Puigsacalm mountain (where there are some of the nicest hiking trails of La Garrotxa).

SANTA PAU—One of the most charming villages of La Garrotxa. Declared of Historical and Artistic importance in 1971, it has retained all its medieval charm, with tiny irregular alleys, walls, and access points. The village was built around a Baron’s castle starting in the 13th century. The castle (unfortunately closed to visitors) remained the residence of the lords and, later on, the center of the village. The nicest view of the old historical center of Santa Pau is from a terrace located by a rather old-fashioned (but extremely local) coffee shop called Can Pauet.

BESALU—The most famous village in the region, it used the commercial center of La Garrotxa. The first sight you’ll get is that of the medieval stone bridge, Pont Vell, built in the 12th century in Romanesque style. The village is also home to the Monastery of Sant Pere; Casa Cornellà, a nicely preserved medieval house; the church of Sant Julià and there also are the remains of a synagogue, a reminder of the presence of an influential Jewish community in the area. A walk along the river will reveal great views and an art installation that includes the “humble chair.”

Olot

Olot, the capital of La Garrotxa, is one of the nicest places to visit in the region. Set on a plain crossed by the Fluvià and Riudaura rivers and surrounded by mountains, Olot—which now counts around 35000 inhabitants—was an important market center already in the 13th century.

The city is packed with small yet interesting museums and beautiful buildings such as the Church of Sant Esteve and the Renaissance Claustre del Carme. You’ll also find many Art Nouveau and the small but lively Mercat d’Olot, an indoor market where you can buy the best meat, fish, vegetables, and fruits produced locally, as well as bread, spices, and nuts. The city also hosts a couple of weekly markets where locals go to buy food, crafts, and even clothes.

Known as the “City of Volcanoes,” Olot it is part of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.  Montsacopa and Montolivet are easily accessible from the city center; but there also are Garrinada and Bisaroques. The Volcano Museum, in Olot, and the Parc Nou Botanic Garden, outside the city center, are two excellent places to learn more about the volcanoes La Garrotxa.

The Museums

Forget about your typical art gallery or archeology exhibit. Museums in La Garrotxa are truly interesting. Here are the ones you should not miss:

BESALU MINIATURE MUSEUM—A fun place to visit if you are in town, a good place to spend an hour or so.

MUSEU DEL SANTS—AKA the Museum of Saints, in Olot: It’s the kind of place where you go to peep in and end up spending a couple of hours learning about what once used to be the most important craft in La Garrotxa. Indeed, the city used to be famous for its production of religious images, and there used to be dozens of workshops where statues of saints were manufactured and sold around the world.

Nowadays, the production of religious images has been moved to the Olot Museum of Saints, which is housed in a beautiful neo-gothic building in the center of Olot. All visitors are handed a headset so they can browse the exhibit while learning about the creation of the statues. On the lower level, through a glass wall, they can observe artists at work as they create new statues.

MUSEU GARROTXA—In Olot, it has a nice exhibit with pieces of the School of Olot.

VOLCANO MUSEUM—Located in a 19th-century villa in the Parc Nou Botanical Gardens of Olot, this museum explains a great deal about volcano formation and activity and is a great place to learn more about the Volcanic Region of La Garrotxa.

TIP: Before visiting, check the opening times of museums on their websites, as they vary depending on the season and the day.

Art Nouveau Buildings

There are some incredible examples of Art Nouveau scattered in La Garrotxa—thanks to the work of many Catalan artists who took a liking to the curved lines, detailed decorations, plant motifs, and asymmetry. There is even a La Garrotxa Art Nouveau route, which can be explored from the Carrilet cycle lane.

The best Art Nouveau buildings are:

CASA GASSIOT—In Carrer Sant Rafael, Olot. 

SOLA- MORALES HOUSE—In the Firal (marketplace) of Olot, in 2000, was included in the European Art Nouveau Route;

GAIETA-VILA HOUSE—Also in the Firal of Olot, it’s an eye-catching, colorful building.

MAS LA RIBA—In L’Hostalnou, in La Vall de Bianya.

CAN CASA—In San Feliu de Pallerols, it’s a building that nowadays hosts a chemist. It dates back to the beginning of the 20th century (which marks the final years of the Art Nouveau movement) and is decorated with colored glass, painted ceramics, and worked wood and iron.

Other notable pieces are the Casa de la Coromina and the altarpiece and entrance door of the Romanesque church of San Salvador de Bianya.

Romanesque Churches and Hermitages

La Garrotxa is packed with Romanesque churches and hermitages. These churches, built in a very simple, functional style, started appearing in the 10th century.

They all share the thick walls, curved ceilings, tiny windows, and layout that follows the Latin cross. Romanesque churches are often in the countryside or in what appears to be the middle of nowhere.

Most of the Romanesque churches of La Garrotxa are still active and consecrated, but they are usually locked and only used for special occasions and celebrations.

TIP: If you are particularly interested in visiting one or more Romanesque churches in La Garrotxa, get in touch with the tourism office beforehand and look for the person who has the keys.

If you are particularly keen on Romanesque churches, there is a dedicated route, but whether you follow it or not, you are bound to see many. Here are the nicest ones: 

SANTA MARGARIDA DE SACOT—The church was built at the center of the crater of Volcano Santa Margarida and – like many others in La Garrotxa – was destroyed during the earthquakes of 1427-1428 and eventually rebuilt in 1865.

SANT MIQUEL DE SACOT—Another example of a beautifully preserved Romanesque Church in La Garrotxa, which was, however, enlarged in the 18th century following a more neoclassical style.

SAN MIQUEL DE CASTELLO HERMITAGE—This pretty church is reached on a hike from Hostalets d’en Bas, which takes about one hour on a steady uphill trail. The view of the valley from there is breathtaking.

SANTA MAGDALENA DEL MONT—Various hiking trails of medium to high difficulty lead to the hermitage, from which there are beautiful views of La Garrotxa below.

SANTI FRUCTUOSI DE URSINIANO and SANCTUARI DEL ARCS—Both of them are beautifully kept and isolated, but, as many other Romanesque churches in La Garrotxa, closed.

SANTA MARGARIDA DE BIANYA—Located next to a. beautiful boutique hotel from whose rooms there are splendid views of the Pyrenees.

SANT MIQUEL DE PINEDA—The former rectory (the house where the priest used to live) has been restored and is now a cozy bed and breakfast.

Volcanoes

Volcanoes are what drew my attention to La Garrotxa to begin with. La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park is an incredible example of volcanic landscape. The region is packed with lava flows and there are 40 inactive volcanoes. The park has a multitude of hiking and biking trails, some going to the craters of inactive volcanoes, others through the thick forest.

TIP: If you want a stunning view of the volcanic landscape, go on a hot-air balloon ride. It’s costly, but it’s one of the most highly recommended experiences in La Garrotxa.

MONTSACOPA—Easily reached from the center of Olot via a short hike that takes between 15 and 30 minutes, depending on the trail you pick (there is one that starts behind the center of the city and another that starts next to the cemetery). At the top of the volcano, there is the beautiful Sant Francesc church as well as a 19th-century watch tower at the top: the views from there are incredible.

MONTOLIVET—Also in Olot, there is an easy hike that goes around the crater (which is now covered in vegetation!) and eventually along the banks of the river Fluvià.

GOOD TO KNOW: Montsacopa and Montolivet are easy hikes, and you can do both in one day.

CROSCAT—A Strombolian volcano, which, with its 160 meters, is the highest volcanic cone in the Iberian Peninsula. One of its sides used to be a quarry, which can now be seen when hiking in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. Nowadays, it’s a place where families enjoy spending a day out, and schools take their students on day trips.

VOLCANO SANTA MARGARIDA—A freato-magmatic volcano. Here, right inside the crater, there is the Romanesque church of Santa Margarida. Nowadays, the crater floor is pasture land, while the slopes are covered in a beautiful oak forest.

GOOD TO KNOW: When visiting La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, you can see Volcano Croscat and Volcano Santa Margarida on the same day. Several trails in the park can be combined to see as many places as possible, and they are all easily accessible.

TIP: Add Fageda d’en Jordà to your itinerary in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. It’s a beautiful beech forest with an organic dairy factory (which children love visiting) in the center.

Hiking Trails

La Garrotxa is an incredible hiking destination. People from Costa Brava and Barcelona go there on day or weekend trips to hike. Some of the best trails are in La Garrotxa Volcanic Natural Park.

Since La Garrotxa is set between Costa Brava and the Pyrenees, you’ll also find an excellent network of short and medium-distance trails of various levels of difficulty, though there also are the longer-distance trails that go right in the Pyrenees.

All trails in La Garrotxa are marked. The Vìas Verdes once were railway lines throughout Spain. Nowadays, they are a famous network of trails for hikers and cyclists (and some parts are even wheelchair accessible): these trails are marked in green.

In some cases, the Vìas Verdes coincide with the GR trails (some of the toughest hiking trails across Europe), which also run through La Garrotxa and are marked with white and red lines in Spain.

You can also follow the Itinerannia trails, a network of paths in the counties of El Ripollés, La Garrotxa, and L’Alt Empordà. These are marked in yellow and, like the Vìas Verdes, at times coincide with the GR trails.

The good thing about Itinerannia is that there are trails of various lengths and levels of difficulty. You can put together various short trails to continue walking; other times, hikes are more challenging, and you’ll need a guide.

Read my post on why I don’t recommend hiking alone.

TIP: Most trails in the Pyrenees of La Garrotxa are well marked, with either vertical signs or marks painted on rocks and tree trunks. Keep in mind that, at times, the mud and leaves cover the signs, and heavy rain deletes the paint, so stay alert and don’t get lost!

The best thing to do is to get a good map of the trail you want to follow, and if possible, download an app. Itinerannia has an app with all the trails. Another good app is View Ranger: once you upload the tracks it works offline (so also in areas where there is no network) and tells you exactly where you are and in which direction to go.

GOOD TO KNOW: The Camino Catalan route of the Camino de Santiago goes right through La Garrotza, starting in Les Planes d’Hostoles and continuing through Sant Feliu de Pallerols and Sant Esteve d’en Bas.

Click here to download my book “A 7 Days Hiking Itinerary For La Garrotxa.”

Waterfalls and Swimming Holes

La Garrotxa is packed with lovely waterfalls and swimming holes, which are easily accessible on foot, by bike, and by car.

The name San Joan Les Fonts quite obviously indicates the proximity to the water of this lovely village. There are various natural springs in the area—the Ruta de les Fonts takes advantage of a few of them.

Another route in La Garrotxa that takes you to a couple of swimming holes and some lovely small waterfalls is the Ruta dels Gorgs (gorgs actually means bathing pool). This 12 km circular hiking trail starts and ends in the lovely Santa Pau and takes you to the lovely natural pools of Can Batlle and the sanctuary of Els Arcs.

San Feliu de Pallerols is crossed by the river Brugent, a tributary of the river Ter. The municipality is dotted with around 50 natural springs—several of them can be easily reached by foot. The nicest ones are the Gorg d’en Duran and the Gorg de la Mola. 

Other Fun Things To Do In La Garrotxa

Go on a Hot Air Balloon Ride

The best views of La Garrotxa are from the sky. A hot air balloon ride is a fabulous way to fully appreciate the volcanic landscape of Alta Garrotxa, which reaches an elevation of up to 1600 meters above sea level. Throughout the flight, your guide provides plenty of information about the area, pointing out various places of natural interest and landmarks and gladly sharing a number of anecdotes.

Flights depart around sunrise from Vol de Coloms, right outside Santa Pau, and last between one and two hours (mine was just short of two hours). Depending on the size of the gondola, up to 13 passengers can share the same ride.

A hot air balloon ride is quite costly, but the experience is worth every penny. During the flight, you will enjoy a glass of cava, munch on traditional Catalan sweets, and even celebrate birthdays.

Once down, you are taken back to the base camp, where you enjoy a traditional brunch of La Garrotxa. This brunch features many dishes of volcanic cuisine—charcuterie, traditional sausages (botifarra), beans typical of the region, and bread and tomatoes.

You can book your hot air balloon ride in Garrotxa here. 

TIP: Hot air balloons don’t fly if it rains, is windy, or has poor visibility. If you are keen, allow at least some flexibility and plan to spend an extra day or two in the region in case the flight gets canceled on the day you are booked in for. The weather was quite bad for a few days, and the flight was canceled when I was scheduled to go, but thankfully, I was still in the region when it finally cleared, and I could go!

Eat

One of the perks of visiting La Garrotxa is the delicious food. There are restaurants for all budgets, serving fine cuisine, international cuisine, indigenous food, and traditional food.

The soil is incredibly fertile in Garrotxa, resulting in very high-quality local products. The region produces onions, potatoes, buckwheat, white haricot beans (known locally as fesols), kidney beans, and even truffles, which are used to accompany pork and other meats. Local goat cheeses are also renowned.

La Garrotxa is known for its “volcanic cuisine,” and a network of local chefs and restaurants has been actively promoting the area’s products and recipes throughout Catalonia and the rest of the country.

One of the nicest dishes to try is the “patates de Olot” (Olot potatoes), potatoes stuffed with ground meat and onions and then fried until crispy on the outside and moist and tasty on the inside. Coca is a sweet bread cake, served for breakfast but at times even with pork scratchings (in which case it is called coca de llardons).

The local liquor is ratafia, made from green walnuts, mixed herbs and spices. 

The following restaurants are all tried, tested, and approved:

CA L’ESTEVE—In Els Hostalets d’En Bas, it is a nice, small local restaurant that is very popular among locals. The good, fresh food and the unbeatable prices (a mere 12 euros for a set menu!) may be the reason.

LA QUINTA JUSTA—In the center of Olot, this is one of the restaurants adhering to the Volcanic Cuisine movement. It is located in a beautiful building, and the food is delicious. Make reservations.

LA DEU—Right outside Olot, it serves huge portions of delicious local food. One of its specialties if Olot potatoes (you can even order them to take away).

LA CUINA DEL MERCAT—Located right next to the covered market in Olot. The service is friendly and informal and the food delicious. It’s very popular with the locals.

Try Local Chocolate

A chocolate-making workshop at Pastisseria Ferrer in Olot with matre chocolatier Jordi Ferrer is a great way to spend a morning. He uses high-quality ingredients to prepare some unique pralines. My favorite one is the salted corn (yes, you read that right!) one, for it is crispy, salty yet sweet and bitter at the same time, and it melts in your mouth.

If enrolling in a chocolate workshop isn’t your idea of having a good time, make sure to at least pay a visit to Pastisseria Ferrer to try some of the pralines. The bonus is that it is located in a beautiful historical building.

Practical Tips To Organize A Trip To La Garrotxa

How to get to and around La Garrotxa

You can travel to La Garrotxa by car or bus (not by train) from Barcelona or Girona – which actually is a bit closer. Both cities have good flights connecting them to the rest of Europe and Spain, and Barcelona El Prat airport also has intercontinental connections. 

It takes less than two hours to drive from Barcelona to Olot, the main city in La Garrotxa. Driving time from Girona is even shorter – 45 to 50 minutes to Olot. If you are thinking of renting a car, you can check the rates here.

The main cities of La Garrotxa are well connected to the rest of Costa Brava by bus – Teisa Bus website has updated information on the bus routes, times and fares. Keep in mind that it will be trickier to get to some of the smaller villages and attractions in the area. Unless you want to call a taxi any time you need to go somewhere far, I recommend that you rent a car . 

Guided tours of La Garrotxa

I recommend spending at least one week in La Garrotxa, but if you are tight on time, you can go there on a guided tour from Barcelona or Girona. For more information on guided day trips, click here.

There are even multi-day guided tours of La Garrotxa that involve activities such as hiking, biking, and exploring various villages and other parts of the Pyrenees and Costa Brava.

When to visit La Garrotxa

All in all, the time you visit La Garrotxa really depends on what you want to do there and what interests you. If you like hiking, the best time to go is either spring or fall. I visited in mid-October, and the temperatures were mild and pleasant, but it rained a lot (there was a terrible stormy front in southern Europe!).

TIP: No matter the season you intend to visit La Garrotxa, make sure to be prepared for the rain with rain gear and boots, as the chances of rain are high throughout the year.

Best Places to Stay

La Garrotxa is packed with good hotels for all tastes and budgets. These are the ones I have tried, and I can recommend:

• LA RECTORIA is a beautiful, cozy bed and breakfast located in Sant Miquel de Pineda, right next to a Romanesque church and not far from San Feliu de Pallerols. Rooms are cozy, the common areas have plenty of historical flavor, the hosts are kind and welcoming. They serve breakfast and a delicious dinner. 
• CASA RURAL MAS EL FERRES, in Joanetes, is a basic guest house with very large rooms and beautiful views of the mountains. Dinner and breakfast are home-cooked (and very good), and the owner is incredibly kind.
• HOTEL VALL DE NAS is a fantastic boutique hotel in Joanetes. It has very large rooms and a great restaurant serving delicious traditional food with a modern twist.
• HOTEL LA PERLA, in Olot, is a nice hotel with clean, comfortable rooms. It also offers a dining service.
• PENSO HOTEL CAN MENCIO, in Santa Pau, is run by an incredibly nice local family. The rooms are basic but clean and comfortable. The view of the main square from the rooms on the top floor is worth the ride up the stairs.
• HOTEL MAS LA FERRERIA is another beautiful boutique hotel in La Vall de Bianya, next to a Romanesque-style church. The rooms are beautifully decorated and comfortable, and the view of the Pyrenees from the terrace is stunning.

Other useful information

More information about La Garrotxa can be found on the website of the local tourism board. Most cities and villages also have their own website, although, at times, the site isn’t completely up to date.

Have you ever been to La Garrotxa, or do you plan to go? Feel free to leave a comment with your questions!

Further readings

Are you planning a trip to Costa Brava? Make sure to read my other posts:

• The Most Beautiful Hikes In Garrotxa: A One Week Itinerary
• 10 Fantastic Attractions In Besalu, Spain
• The Best Guide To The Things To Do In Girona
• What You Must Know Before Visiting Girona
• Hiking In The Pyrenees: The Best Trails

Interested in volcanoes? Check out these posts:

• Everything You Need To Know To Visit Mount Bromo, Indonesia
• Everything You Need To Know When Going On A Hike Of Pacaya Volcano, In Guatemala
• Everything You Need To Know To Hike Stromboli Volcano

Legal Disclaimer: I was a guest of the Patronat de Turisme Costa Brava Girona during my trip to La Garrotxa for the #InPyrenees #LaGarrotxa #lagarrotxatotlany and #itinerannia campaign, and wish to thank them for helping me out with the organization. Needless to say, the views expressed in this post remain my own. 

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