Palermo is easily my favorite barrio (neighborhood) in Buenos Aires. It’s an incredibly green part of the city – you realize how many parks there are here when you fly over and land at the Jorge Newbery Airport (which is in Palermo, by the way).
The name of the area derives from the Franciscan abbey of Saint Benedict the Moor (Saint Benedict of Palermo). The saint is, in fact, one of the patrons of Palermo, the capital of Sicily.
Palermo Buenos Aires bursts with life. Here, you’ll find some of the best restaurants and bars in the city.
There’s art galore at its museums, and an incredible array of murals decorate the buildings. But more than anything else, what you’ll appreciate about Palermo Buenos Aires is the friendly, relaxed atmosphere: you’ll immediately feel at home here.
Curious to learn more about what to do in Palermo Buenos Aires? Continue reading as I guide you through the many sub-barrios of Palermo Buenos Aires and its many attractions.
You should also read my posts on the most Unmissable Things To Do In Buenos Aires and Fantastic Day Trips From Buenos Aires if you need a little help planning your Buenos Aires itinerary.
Neighborhoods Of Palermo Buenos Aires
Before we jump into what to do in Palermo Buenos Aires and other important travel information, let’s talk about the neighborhood.
Palermo is a (massive) neighborhood in the northern part of the Argentine capital. For the most part, it’s characterized by leafy parks, buzzing cafes, cycle paths, and a family-friendly atmosphere at weekends.
Rather than being just one place, however, there are different quarters that make up this large barrio (which is 17.5 square kilometers in the area; or around 7 miles squared). Let’s check out the many neighborhoods of Palermo Buenos Aires.
Palermo Soho
This is located in the southwestern portion of Palermo. It’s a chic part of town that’s awash with designer stores, high-end restaurants, and places to grab a drink. It’s like a hipster hangout for the well-heeled Argentines and tourists alike.
Palermo Hollywood
This area was dubbed Palermo “Hollywood” in the 1990s when a plethora of well-known TV, movie, and radio studios and production companies moved into the district, making it a center for the entertainment and broadcasting industry.
It’s also become known for its nightlife, with stylish dining aplenty, sophisticated cocktail bars, and late-night entertainment venues, including rooftop bars and clubs. You will see there are many incredible things to do in Palermo Hollywood!
Palermo Viejo
Translating to “Old Palermo”, this is the historic center of the barrio. At its heart is the Plaza Palermo Viejo; the streets around it are lined with Spanish Colonial Revival-style buildings. Traditionally it’s been the home for literati and intellectuals over the years, including Ernesto Guevara (whom you may know as Che Guevara) and Jorge Luis Borges.
Palermo Nuevo
Situated northwest of Palermo is Palermo Nuevo, or “New Palermo”. It has a long list of sights, including Buenos Aires Eco-Park, the Botanical Gardens, the Japanese Gardens, and Bosques de Palermo, aka the Parque Tres de Febrero.
Parque Tres de Febrero is the largest green area in the city, designed by Carlos Thays,. Here, you can spot statues of William Shakespeare, Federico García Lorca, Antonio Machado, and Jorge Luis Borges.
Pacifico
This quarter of Palermo runs along the length of Santa Fe Avenue and takes its name from the Mitre Railway Line — once called the Buenos Aires to Pacific Railway. It remains a transport hub and is a good place to hop on a bus, metro, or train to elsewhere fairly easily.
Las Canitas
Just over a century ago, this part of Palermo was known for its tenement blocks. However, in the modern day, these old residential buildings have been replaced by shiny highrises as well as chain restaurants and bars.
Palermo Chico
Without a doubt, the chicest part of Palermo is where the wealthy live. It’s situated on the northeastern edge of the barrio and is mainly a residential area. Here you’ll find luxury homes for the rich and famous, plus a number of international residents due to the scattering of foreign embassies.
Palermo Norte
This is the downtown part of Palermo. Here you’ll find the barrio’s main shopping district as well as the leafy Las Heras Park. There is also a clutch of museums and other monuments to discover in Palermo Norte.
Best Things To Do In Palermo Buenos Aires
Explore Villa Freud
Possibly one of the most interesting mini-neighborhoods within the larger neighborhood of Palermo, Villa Freud has an interesting claim to fame. Apparently, it was given its name due to the high concentration of psychiatrists and psychotherapists who have offices in the area, particularly around Plaza Guemes.
There was actually something of a therapy boom in Argentina in the 1940s, sparked in 1938 by the arrival in the area of a Spanish psychoanalyst called Angel Garma — known as the founder of psychoanalysis in Argentina.
Otherwise known as Guadalupe, Villa Freud is also replete with bookshops and even Sigmund Freud-themed cafes. It’s an intriguing place to wander around and sit for a while, soaking up the local life.
Visit Carlos Thays Botanical Garden
Close to Plaza Italia in the heart of Palermo is Buenos Aires Botanical Garden, or Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays, named after the French-Argentine landscape architect.
The park is free to visit, and it’s home to more than 6,000 species of plants and trees, with a fantastic mix of native plants and exotic ones – my personal favorite was seeing the yerba mate bush (that’s the leaves that are used to prepare mate, the tea-like drink Argentines love to drink).
There’s also a historic greenhouse, a house that used to be Carlos Thays house and now houses exhibits, and lots of sculptures scattered around the garden.
It’s a nice place to explore to escape the chaos of the city. It’s a perfect place to relax on a hot summer day (and there are many unbearable summer days in Buenos Aires. It’s so easy to reach, not to mention completely free to visit: you really can’t miss it.
Check out Garibaldi Monument
Nobody ever mentions the monument to Garibaldi in Buenos Aires. I guess it takes an Italian to notice it – as after all, he is Italy’s unification hero. Of course there are many people of Italian descent in Argentina, but why is there a monument to Garibaldi?
The Italian general played a pivotal role in freeing Buenos Aires from the rule of Juan Manuel de Rosas, known to be a brutal tyrant. The statue was donated by the Italian community and the monument was first inaugurated in 1904.
The statue itself is a lovely sight: it’s surrounded by greenery, which makes it a nice place to stop for a while. It’s a spot locals enjoy, so it’s also great for a bit of people-watching.
Hang out at Plaza Inmigrantes de Armenia and Plaza Serrano
Plaza Serrano lies at the center of Palermo Soho. It’s lined by cafes, bars, and restaurants, making it a great spot to hang out, grab a bite to eat, and watch the world go by. There’s even an art fair that takes place here every weekend.
A five-minute walk away, Plaza Inmigrantes de Armenia is also known for its weekend crafts market, which is hosted in its larger and more leafy park grounds. The streets around both plazas provide an easygoing spot for people-watching and window-shopping, with many a bar or cafe where you can sit with a snack and a drink.
Go on a street art tour
Despite its relatively high-end credentials, Palermo is a colorful and creative quarter of Buenos Aires. Throughout the streets, you can discover a number of vibrant illustrations daubed on the side of buildings, some by internationally renowned street artists.
You can take in these eye-catching murals and Instagram-worthy graffiti by taking a street art tour through the district – it’s one of the best things to do in Palermo.
There are a surprising number of tours on offer, but one option is to explore the sights on your own using Google Maps. Or you could join a tour with a knowledgeable local guide who will offer you insight into the various pieces of art on the walls of this famous hipster-friendly neighborhood.
Graffiti and Street Art Tour of Palermo—Starting in Plaza Serrano and going around the surrounding streets, this is the most popular street art tour of Palermo. I have done it myself and loved it.
Visit MALBA
The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano of Buenos Aires is located in a beautiful granite building and houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art by Latin America’s most prominent artists.
Among the most important pieces of the exhibit are the works of Mexican artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera and many other pieces that belonged to the private collection of Eduardo Costantini.
It’s easily one of the best museums in the city, and you should not miss the chance to go if you are into modern art.
Learn about Evita in the Evita Peron Museum
You certainly have heard of the Evita Peron Museum, and if you are spending time in Buenos Aires. Also, you’ll definitely want to visit Recoleta Cemetery, where her tomb is located.
The museum is entirely dedicated to the popular wife of President Juan Domingo Perón. It’s housed in a beautiful 1920s mansion where you’ll find all sorts of documents, photos, and even dresses and accessories that belonged to her.
Check out the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
Museo Nacional de Arte Decroativo houses the collection of Chilean aristocrats Matías Errázuriz and Josefina de Alvear in what used to be their actual home. You can admire some very fine pieces here, including paintings by Manet, Rodin, and El Greco.
The building itself is not to be dismissed, and the period furniture is definitely worth a visit – it’s what to see in Palermo Buenos Aires for a cultural experience.
Go on a food tour
I always say that a food tour is a great way of learning more about a city’s vibe, culture and way of life and this certainly applies to Palermo too.
There are many food tours in Palermo, but the one I recommend the most is run by a local company called Asado Adventures. They have several experiences – one focused on Argentine pizza, one on asado (Argentine mixed grill), and one on craft beer.
The classic food tour, however, is the most complete experience in my opinion. You will be walking through Palermo Soho with a local guide, explore the best street art and the most important sights, and try some delicious food. During my tour, we tried:
- Medialunas – Argentine pastries that are similar in shape to croissants (but taste completely different);
- Empanadas – One of the most traditional foods of Argentina
- Faina – Pretty much the same thing as Italian fainé;
- Milanesa – A concept similar to that of Italian cotoletta alla milanese: a breaded veal steak, fried in hot oil;
- Steak – No food in Argentina can be called such without steak;
- Provoleta – Provolone cheese grilled in a skillet;
- Gelato – The Italian heritage shows up once again.
Of course, we also had tastings of local wine!
On my last visit, I took this half-day Palermo Soho food tour with Asado Adventures. As we walked through the neighborhoods and visited its most impressive sights, we learned about its history and tried all the best food.
Eat steak
Argentina has a great food scene, but it’s famed for its steak. A regular trip to any of the hundreds of steakhouses in the city is a modern-day tradition for most residents of Buenos Aires. While you’re there, it would be a shame to miss out on this delectable dining experience.
But still, you should choose carefully. There are a fair few exceptional places to eat steak in Palermo.
One of my favorites is La Cabrera; with so many places to choose from, somehow, La Cabrera comes out on top. Located in Palermo Soho, you’ll be able to spot this place a mile away because of the long line of hungry diners (usually) waiting outside.
Make sure to make reservations in advance, and if you forget, just show up early to put your name on the waiting list. The polite staff will let you know how long you can expect to wait.
Another good one is Lo de Jesus. It’s more affordable than other top steakhouses in the neighborhood, but it certainly doesn’t skimp on quality or ambiance, as the atmosphere here is second to none. The wine list is also huge.
Last but definitely not least is the famous Don Julio. This venerable steakhouse will draw you in with wafts of sizzling steaks cooked on its parrilla (grill), all wrapped up in comfortable, cozy interiors. It is much raved about, and rightly so; they frequently serve up the best steaks people have ever had, or so they say.
Tired of steak and looking for something a bit more creative? Go to Picaron, in Barrio Chaquarita just south of Palermo. I ate there on my latest trip and was impressed with the food quality, the easy going atmosphere and the wine list.
Drink Malbec
Along with steak, Argentina is also very well known for its wine — and is actually one of the world’s largest wine producers. Its wine is a reflection of the country’s patchwork of immigration that has shaped the nation over the centuries. It was the French who brought the malbec grape with them, a wine that has now become pretty much synonymous with Argentine wine.
If you’re spending time in the city, one of the top things to do in Palermo, Buenos Aires, to get acquainted with this local variety of grape is to head to La Malbequeria.
This wine bar (which is actually attached to Lo de Jesus) is a neighborhood favorite and a vibrant destination for wine lovers from further afield. You can do a wine tasting here, and the wine is served alongside bread, cheeses, and empanadas.
It’s definitely on the pricey side, but it’s worth it not only for the wine but also for the beautiful setting. There’s a choice of seating, with indoor and outdoor tables, as well as a courtyard and leafy garden.
Mendoza, Argentina, is one of the most popular places in Argentina for good wine. If you have the time, definitely try to visit and try some of Mendoza’s best wineries.
Try Argentine craft beer
While steak and wine have long been famous parts of Argentine and Buenos Aires culture, beer isn’t quite as famous.
However, in recent years craft beer has been making the same sort of waves in the Argentine capital as it has across the world. There are now over 4,000 microbreweries in Argentina, and you can sample some of these regional brews at several cool drinking establishments in Palermo.
One of these is Nola, which serves up a selection of craft beers and ales alongside Cajun-inspired cuisine. There’s also Baum, a bar and restaurant in Palermo Soho known for its good collection of beers (and live music). Elsewhere 1516 Cerveceria features a huge patio that regularly gets packed with thirsty customers looking to try their wide choice of beers.
Premium Craft Beer Tour Experience in Palermo—This is one of the best craft beer tours in Palermo, Argentina. It’s perfect for those who don’t know where to start (because it can be overwhelming).
Go shopping
Buenos Aires is a shopping haven, but Palermo is where it’s at for browsers, window shoppers, and those looking to shop ‘til they drop alike.
Shopping is definitely one of the best things to do in Palermo Soho. With its cobbled streets lined with trees, it is the ideal place to spend some time browsing. Here you’ll find a collection of boutique clothing shops, locally owned accessory stores, and designer outlets.
There are also shopping malls in the neighborhood. Alto Palermo, situated close to Palermo, is a trendy hangout complete with a food court and fashionable stores. Palermo Norte is another part of the neighborhood famed for its shopping. And don’t forget about the Sunday markets!
Enjoy coffee in one of the nicest cafés
One of the best things to do in Palermo is to simply wander to a cafe, find yourself a seat and then watch the world go by. There are countless cafes and coffee houses dotted around the district, with several top-tier venues for a cup of coffee, a snack, and a gorgeous place to sit for a while.
Oui Oui is where to go in Palermo Buenos Aires for a good cup of coffee and a nice atmosphere. It is a wonderfully French-themed cafe that emulates the effortless cool of a Parisian coffeehouse. Take a seat, sip on deliciously dark coffee, and do not miss out on one of their melt-in-the-mouth pastries.
Then there’s La Alacena — the perfect spot for a long brunch in the vibrant center of Palermo Soho.
If you’re at the Museo de Artes Plasticas Eduardo Sivori, then round up your visit with a stop at the onsite Cafe Sivoli. Its parkside location gives you lovely views out onto sculpted greenery.
fHonestly though, my favorite place is Lucio Pizza e Pasta – I discovered it on my last trip to Buenos Aires and would recommend this over any other place. It has a retro look, which makes it nice and cozy; it is very local. But most importantly the coffee is good and the medialunas (which are shaped like croissants but taste completely different) are the best in town.
Enjoy Palermo nightlife
This is definitely one of the unmissable things to do Palermo Buenos Aires! This fun-loving part of a fun-loving city is awash with places to dance the night away till late, hang out at rooftop restaurants, or sip a cocktail at a swish bar.
Local favorites in Palermo include Uptown. This basement club occupies space inside a disused New York Subway carriage, making it a delightfully dystopian but very fun place to let your hair down (DJs play here until the early hours).
On the other end of the spectrum, there’s Verne, which serves up craft cocktails in a sophisticated setting. Then there’s the landmark Niceto Club, a much-loved nightclub that sees locals and visitors alike packing the dancefloor throughout the week.
Visit the Japanese Gardens
Buenos Aires Japanese Gardens in Palermo is one of the best things to do in Palermo Buenos Aires, especially if you want a little peace and quiet (during non-busy times).
The gardens are located in the heart of the neighborhood, surrounded by big apartment buildings and bustling streets. However, the space is large enough to walk around, relax, and enjoy the view from one of the benches or resting areas.
The Japanese Gardens have a cultural center, oriental plants and trees, a library, and a lake filled with beautiful fish.
Unfortunately, it can get pretty crowded, especially on weekends. So, I’d recommend visiting during a weekday and either early morning or later afternoon when things are more mellow.
Explore the Ecoparque
Close to the Japanese Gardens, the Ecoparque used to be Buenos Aires Zoo, but it has thankfully converted into a place for the rehabilitation of wildlife, focused on environmental protection and sustainability.
All the animals were relocated when the park opened: some went to larger zoos, others went back into the wild. It’s a fun place to visit if you are traveling with children, but it’s also great for travelers on a budget since it’s completely free to visit.
Practical Guide To Palermo Buenos Aires
Guided tours of Palermo Buenos Aires
You can definitely and easily explore Palermo on your own. However, to make the most of it – and especially appreciate its history, culture, and way of life, you may want to hire a local guide to take you around and put everything in perspective. There are some tours you can also book online which have great reviews. Here are some I recommend:
On my last visit, I took this half-day Palermo Soho food tour with Asado Adventures. We learned about the neighborhood and visited the most impressive sites such as the Botanical Gardens and the Garibaldi Monument, and tasted the best local food.
Full-day bike tour of Buenos Aires—This tour doesn’t just go to Palermo. It will also take you to other important attractions in Buenos Aires, such as San Telmo, the Microcentro, the Casa Rosada, Retiro, and the Recoleta Cemetery. Lunch is included.
Graffiti and Street Art Tour of Palermo—This is a truly fun tour. A local guide will take you around the streets of Palermo, explaining its history and social structures, all via the street art you’re going to admire. I have done it myself and loved it.
Where to stay in Palermo Buenos Aires
As you may have hinted, I have been to Buenos Aires many times. Each time, I have slept in a different area, but I soon determined that Palermo is definitely my favorite place to stay in Buenos Aires, and I now only stay there when I visit.
The following are my top picks for the best hotels in Palermo Buenos Aires:
Palo Santo Boutique Hotel – I stayed here during my latest trip and loved it. The room is large and comfortable, with a nice balcony and a kitchenette to prepare hot drinks and snacks. A fantastic breakfast is served every morning. There’s also a small rooftop pool with views over the neighborhood.
Legado Mitico—If you have the budget to splurge, this is definitely the best hotel in the area. The common areas are absolutely plush!
1828 Smart Hotel Boutique—You don’t have to break the bank for a comfortable room in a boutique hotel in Buenos Aires, and this is a great place to stay indeed!
Malevo Murana Hostel—This is a great option for backpackers or travelers on a budget. You can book a bed in one of the plain but clean and comfortable dorms or a private, small but well-equipped room.
You should also read my post, A Complete Guide To Where To Stay In Buenos Aires, for a more detailed list of all the best places to stay in Buenos Aires.
How to get to Palermo from Buenos Aires city center
Palermo is very well connected to the rest of Buenos Aires, so it’s easy to get there even if you are not actually staying there.
To get there, you can count on the metro (called Subte), public buses, taxi or Uber.
If you are traveling by metro, it will take you roughly 30 minutes to get there from Plaza de Mayo or Catedral. You need to get on the green D line and can get off at Scalabrini Ortiz, Plaza Italia or Palermo.
You can also take the red B-line at Florida and get off at Angel Gallardo or Malabia, from where it is a quick walk to Palermo Soho.
A taxi or Uber ride will take you approximately the same amount of time from the Microcentro area.
How to get to Palermo from the airport
There are actually two airports in Buenos Aires.
One is Ministro Pistarini International Airport, known as Ezeiza and about an hour’s drive from the center of town. This is where your international flight will land.
The other is Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, locally known as Aeroparque. It is located in Palermo and is the main airport for domestic flights, though there are also some flights to international destinations in South America.
Below are the best options to get from both airports to your accommodation in Palermo Buenos Aires.
From Ezeiza Airport
To get from Ezeiza to Palermo, you can count on the efficient public transportation network of Buenos Aires, on the large number of taxis that regularly ply the route, or on private transfers.
Various bus companies cover the route – Minibus Ezeiza, Manuel Tienda Leon, and Aerobus Ezeiza. The prices and timetables vary, but if you are not in a rush, this is definitely the most budget-friendly way of getting to Palermo.
Taxis are easy to find just outside the arrivals terminal. The price of the ride will vary depending on the distance covered and how much traffic you’ll encounter. For this reason, it may be best to actually book a private transfer to your hotel.
Booking a private transfer from Ezeiza Airport is usually much easier, especially if it’s your first time visiting the city.
You should also read my post, The Best Way To Get From Ezeiza To Buenos Aires, for much more information on transportation around the city and from the airport.
From Aeroparque
Getting from Aeroparque to Palermo is actually super easy. Depending on where you are staying and how much luggage you have with you, you may even decide to walk. Otherwise, you have the option of taking a taxi, the Manuel Tienda Leon bus, or a private transfer.
If you’re interested in booking a private transfer, I recommend this Private Transfer from Aeroparque or Ezeiza service. It’s very reliable and convenient with good service.
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