Looking for what to do in San Telmo? Here, you will discover the best things to do in San Telmo, the history of this incredible barrio, and many more tips that will help you plan your visit.
Whenever I visit Buenos Aires, and including during my latest trip this March, I always visit El Barrio de San Telmo. It’s one of the most interesting, charming, and quaint barrios (neighborhoods) of the Argentine capital.
Many people visit Argentina for Patagonia and the adventure, but Buenos Aires has a lot to offer and is one of my favorite places in Argentina.
This part of town is famous for the milongas (places where locals go to dance tango) and the antiques market, but I go there to check out the millions of stalls of the Feria de San Telmo—the street market that takes place on Sundays only.
It’s a fantastic place to buy a unique item (or three), test your Spanish while you haggle with the vendors, and mingle with locals. Besides, I love the food market, where I can get delicious empanadas.
Curious to find out more about this charming area of Buenos Aires? Continue reading as I guide you through what to do in San Telmo Buenos Aires and share some practical tips for Argentina specific to San Telmo.
These are the best guided tours of San Telmo that you may book online:
Make sure to also read my post, the Unmissable Things To Do In Buenos Aires, before your visit to the bustling city.
What To Do In San Telmo Buenos Aires
Learn about the history of San Telmo
El Barrio de San Telmo is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires, and so the district is awash with layers of history. Specifically, the district dates back to the 17th century, when it grew up as the home of people who worked in the area’s industry.
They chose this area because it was close to the old dockyard, where they worked in warehouses and as millers and brick-makers.
To fully grasp the history of San Telmo, I recommend joining a guided tour such as this Historical Guided Tour with Street Food & Drinks. Your guide will share all the history and anecdotes about this part of Buenos Aires, and you’ll also enjoy some food tastings and drinks.
Many of Buenos Aires’ exports came from San Telmo, including leather, hides, and wool. Workers would prepare these various materials and store them in warehouses during the colonial period.
The area of San Telmo was multicultural. Free and enslaved people of African origin, as well as other immigrants, arrived in the city for work and gravitated towards San Telmo as their new home.
San Telmo officially became incorporated into the city of Buenos Aires in 1708. Poverty was rife in this part of town, so the Jesuits set up a spiritual house to help alleviate some of the issues that the residents faced.
When the Jesuit Order was effectively shut down in 1767, the parish of San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo (otherwise known as San Telmo) was established in 1806, yet the district began to deteriorate—even after Argentine independence in 1816.
Things started to improve from 1852, after the deposition of governor Juan Manuel de Rosas. That’s when new civic projects were carried out to create better public infrastructure: electric lighting, sewers, gas mains, running water, and cobbled streets were brought into the neighborhood, as well as medical clinics; a market was established.
In 1871, San Telmo was hit by an epidemic of Yellow Fever. More than 10,000 people died, and the growing middle classes left the area to move to Recoleta.
But most of the abandoned houses became conventillos (tenement blocks), designed to house a wave of immigrants arriving from Europe between 1875 and 1930.
This influx of people created a multicultural district where communities from Italy, Galicia, Britain, and Russia lived together. It was at this time that tango was born, the result of mingling musical and dance traditions from across Europe.
The district gained a reputation as a bohemian neighborhood and attracted artists and writers alike.
Though bohemian, decay was still evident in the district, so in the 1990s, San Telmo was given a new lick of paint and restored to some of its former 19th-century glory. It became a popular area to explore—not just for its old-world charm and cobbled streets but also for its credentials as the birthplace of tango.
Go to the Feria de San Telmo (San Telmo Market)
The main draw to San Telmo is the feria – the street fair, or San Telmo Market – that takes place every Sunday (unless it’s raining, in which case most vendors won’t even set up), from around 10:00 am till 5:00 pm.
San Telmo market goes along Defensa Street, starting from Plaza de Mayo. The street fair is a great place to buy all sorts of souvenirs and items to bring home with you – leather bags, shoes, clothing, all sorts of accessories, and jewels; you name it. I bought one of my favorite bags there.
While the market officially opens at 10:00 am, the best time to visit to find it in full swing is the early afternoon. That’s when the market gets really lively. As the sun begins to set, most vendors will start closing up their shop and most of the actions moves to Plaza Dorrego, where you’ll find the tango dancers (more about it in a bit).
To get to San Telmo Market, hop on Subte (that’s Buenos Aires underground system) line D and get off at Catedral Station. It’s an easy walk from there.
Visit the covered market
Within the Feria de San Telmo, you’ll also find a smaller covered market. This market has long played an important part in the barrio’s daily life.
Though there had been more informal markets in the district, this one was built in 1897 by the Italian-born architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo, who was also behind the famous Recoleta Cemetery.
The covered San Telmo market takes up almost a whole block of the area—that of Estados Unidos and Carlos Calvo streets. It’s a beautifully made wrought iron structure, but sadly, it doesn’t have its original ceiling.
Take a step inside from one of the four gates to find a host of places to grab a coffee, an empanada, a choripan, to enjoy a drink, or browse for retro records and vintage clothes. They even sell fruit and vegetables.
Keep your belongings close to you, though. This lively and frenetic market is a great way to see local life, but it is also known for pickpockets. Make sure you stay aware of your surroundings, and if you stop for coffee, don’t hang your bag on a chair or put it under the table—keep it with you. It really is notorious for pickpockets.
Go antique shopping
If you’re a fan of shopping, you should definitely spend an afternoon antique shopping around the neighborhood.
Antique lovers will find San Telmo to be something of a paradise. Here there are a number of places where you can pick up objects and furniture from yesteryear, one of the main ones being the above-mentioned Feria de San Telmo.
This antique market has been going strong since the 1970s and regularly draws in crowds of thousands of people to browse its 300-plus stalls.
Vendors spread out their wares on tables or blankets on the cobbles, and market-goers stroll between the stalls, sifting through the antiques to find hidden gems.
Note that—once again—this can also be a hotspot for pickpockets. Keep nothing valuable in your pockets, and have your bag well secured (and close) to your body as you explore.
Visit the Manzana de las Luces
In parts of the district, San Telmo seems to flawlessly spill over into the Montserrat neighborhood to the north and vice versa.
These two districts share a similar history in the development of Buenos Aires, namely that they are the oldest barrios of the city. Just across the border in Montserrat you’ll find a relic of the Jesuit heritage of Buenos Aires in the form of the Manzana de las Luces (Illuminated Block).
The complex consists of a church, a cloister, and colonial-era administration offices. In its heyday, the building played a pivotal role in the day-to-day running of this part of the city.
Later, in the 19th century, Manzana de las Luces was once also home to the city’s (and the country’s) first library, first college, and its first law-making assembly.
Tunnels were first uncovered here in 1865, during projects to drain the area of San Telmo; even more tunnels were found in 1912 when the city’s metro network was being created.
Nobody really knows the reason for the tunnel network. One theory suggests that they were intended to connect the various churches of the city. Though some of them were demolished or had naturally caved in over the centuries, the tunnels beneath Manzana de las Luces are available to visit.
Tours run regularly on the weekdays; however, even if you don’t go on a tour, you can still visit the old Jesuit complex, walk around its courtyard, and take a peek at the architecture.
Pose with the statue of Mafalda
This statue, seemingly of nothing more than a cartoonish girl on a bench, is actually a depiction of one of Argentina’s most-loved comic strip characters. Therefore, it’s definitely at the top of the list of what to do in San Telmo.
Mafalda is the six-year-old title character of the comic strip by the famous Argentine cartoonist Quino (1932-2020).
First launched in 1964, Mafalda represented a burgeoning middle class in the country, with themes often focused on humanity, social problems, and world issues, but through the lens of the innocence of youth.
The statue of Mafalda was erected in 2009 outside Quino’s home. Members of her family also scatter the area.
Visiting this spot is one of the most popular things to do in San Telmo (almost a pilgrimage for some people who grew up with the cartoon character, like myself), so don’t be surprised if you have to wait your turn to snap a picture of yourself sitting on the bench next to Mafalda.
The line moves swiftly, and there now are a few more statues nearby (typically outside souvenir shops).
Attend a tango show
This is one of the most popular (and often free) things to do in San Telmo. Tango is part of the lifeblood of San Telmo, being born here in the late 19th century. Though tango itself became a little unfashionable elsewhere in the city after its initial boom, it remained a popular pastime in San Telmo.
You can sometimes see tango being danced in squares around the district (e.g., in Plaza Dorrego), seemingly spontaneously. There are specific places you can go to watch tango—or even get involved yourself—quite a few, in fact.
Ask anyone from Buenos Aires and they will tell you that all of the tango shoes are very touristy. There’s no denying they are, but if you aren’t in San Telmo on a Sunday to grab a free show in Plaza Dorrego, it’s a good alternative – and after all, you are a tourist!
On Wednesday nights, the Buenos Aires Club hosts Maldita Milonga. Amateur dance partners take to the floor along to the soundtrack of a band; late in the night, the professionals come onto the floor instead.
La Ventana provides an interesting mix of tango and folklore, infused with Andean music performances as well as gaucho hunting weapon displays. You can even order dinner here and eat your meal while being entertained.
You can purchase a La Ventana Tango Show Ticket with an optional dinner addition before the show.
Taking place since 1969, El Viejo Almacen puts on one of the longest tango shows in the city. The evening starts with diners enjoying meals in a 19th-century building, after which they’re ushered across the road to the dance hall, where a sparkling show wows the audience in a cozy setting.
You can book your tango show at El Viejo Almacen online. Much like the other places, you have the option to have dinner there as well.
Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso is more about the music side of things, with tango musicians from across Argentina making their way to this venue to entertain audiences. The music runs from traditional tango to more rock-infused varieties.
There’s also Bar Sur, in the heart of San Telmo not far from Plaza Dorrego. Much like the other places, here you can enjoy a show of tango with a meal, and there even are tango classes.
Then, last but not least, we’ve got Todo Mundo. Located on Plaza Dorrego, inside a laid-back eatery, Todo Mundo is famed for its lone pair of dancers who twirl around the floor in the daytime and into the evening. On Thursdays, however, there’s an all-out show that starts around 10:00 pm.
Visit El Zanjón de Granados Tunnels
Visiting El Zanjon de Granados Tunnels is actually one of the best things to do in all of Buenos Aires and what to do in San Telmo for a more intriguing visit.
In 1985, a chemical engineer named Jorge Eckstein purchased a run-down mansion in the San Telmo area. It would have once been a lavish home for the wealthy Buenos Aires residents who moved into this district in the early 19th century.
The building needed some serious renovation.
During refurbishment work, Eckstein noticed that inner courtyard seemed to be slightly sunken. Excavation works established that underneath the patio there were tunnels.
Two kilometers (1.2 miles) of passageways were unearthed, with debris shifted in hundreds of trucks, and archaeologists called in to ascertain the tunnels’ origin.
Unlike the Jesuit tunnels underneath the Manzana de las Luces, it’s believed that these tunnels were constructed by the local residents around 1780 to manage the sewerage system of the area.
You can now visit on guided tours.
Take a look at La Casa Minima
While there are some large mansions in San Telmo, over on Pasaje San Lorenzo, you’ll find the narrowest in town. Look out for number 380; you can’t miss it, thanks to its green door.
Measuring in at 2.5 meters (8.2 feet) wide and 13 meters (42.65 feet) deep, La Casa Minima was a tiny house before tiny houses were so fashionable.
Once slavery was abolished officially in 1853, formerly enslaved people of African descent were given small portions of land by their former owners, and would build their home there. The Casa Minima is the only one that remains.
Another story says that the house was once larger and was split and sold off or rented over its history. The owner kept the portion in the middle.
You can now explore the tiny space on guided tours run by the same company that manages El Zanjón, which is located nearby.
Visit other museums in San Telmo
San Telmo is home to some of the most fascinating museums in Buenos Aires. I have already mentioned El Zanjon de Granados, but there are more that are worth visiting.
- MACBA – Museum of Contemporary Art Buenos Aires. It hosts a collection featuring South American artists, often with a very strong political message.
- BUENOS AIRES MUSEO – A newer museum located on one of the most beautiful buildings in San Telmo. It’s a good place to learn more about the history of the city. There’s also a rooftop terrace from where you can enjoy nice views.
- NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY – Located in Parque Lezama, it’s the most important history museum in the city. Go there to admire paintings of the 19th century Argentine–Paraguay wars and to learn about the city’s obsession with football.
- CABILDO – You can’t miss this building in the famous Plaza de Mayo. It was the original seat of colonial government in Argentina and now it’s a history museum where you can learn more about Argentina’s fight for independence. The balcony offers nice views of the square.
Head to Pasaje de la Defensa
Pasaje de la Defensa is an almost hidden spot that occupies space inside a large mansion built in 1880 for the Ezeiza family.
Like many others in the district, this mansion went on to become a conventillo, where multiple families lived together.
Today the Pasaje de la Defensa is an attractive place for a photo opportunity, with several black-and-white tiled patios and charming building facades. It’s also a nice place to shop, as there are a few antique vendors and art stores dotted around the old apartments.
Have a drink at a historical cafe
Buenos Aires has over 70 bares notables, or historical cafes throughout the city. There are several worth visiting in San Telmo, whether you’re looking for a tasty coffee, cold beer, or just a small slice of history.
The city government goes out of its way to preserve these places, as they are an important piece of Buenos Aires’s history and culture.
Most of the bares notables don’t have the absolute best food in Argentina, but they’re worth checking out for the history and atmosphere alone.
One of the best famous bares notables in San Telmo is Bar El Federal. It’s actually the second-oldest bar notable in Buenos Aires, and you can tell from the ancient decor and vibes. It’s a fun place for a drink, and maybe even to meet some other travelers.
La Poesía is another well-known historical cafe in San Telmo with a similar atmosphere. You should definitely try to swing by at least one of them while you’re in Buenos Aires. Although, they can get very busy, especially near the tourist neighborhoods.
Check out the street art of San Telmo
Palermo usually gets all the credit for the best street art in Buenos Aires, but during my latest visit this March, I joined a guided bike street art tour around San Telmo, La Boca and Barracas (one of the lesser known districts) and I was impressed with the amount of street art here.
As street art is always changing and evolving, it is difficult to point to a particular piece as it may not be there anymore once you visit.
Having said so, I spotted many interesting pieces. My personal favorite, as a rock lover, is a mural depicting David Bowie.
Pasaje San Lorenzo is where you will find many colorful murals, whereas Calle Balcarce is where you’ll see the largest pieces, including by famous local artist Alfredo Segatori.
You will also spot a lot of street art in Calle Defensa – the one that houses the Feria de San Telmo. Many pieces here are a clear reference to Argentina’s football obsession.
Practical Guide Of San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Guided tours of San Telmo
One of the best ways to gain a deeper insight into the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires is to book a tour.
This is also a particularly good way to see San Telmo if you’re short on time. Either way, having a knowledgeable and friendly local guide you around an area they know very well lets you see things from a different perspective.
Plus, it’s nice to be told the history rather than referring to a guidebook every 30 seconds!
I recommend this Private Guided Walking Tour of San Telmo if you want a personalized experience where you can see the best of this charming neighborhood.
Another great way to explore the city is by bike. I recommend this San Telmo and La Boca District Bike Tour. You’ll explore the streets on a beach cruiser bike for about four hours, hit all the hot spots, and learn even more about the neighborhood.
This Buenos Aires Like a Local is a full city tour, but it spends a lot of time in San Telmo and is an overall great experience with a local guide. You’re sure to find many hidden gems and learn even more about the city as a whole.
If you’re interested in food, this San Telmo: Guided Parrilla Foodie Tour is the perfect option. You’ll explore San Telmo while trying the best of Argentine cuisine.
Where to sleep in San Telmo
San Telmo is not my favorite area to stay in Buenos Aires (and I say this after having stayed there during my very first trip). I’m a fan of Palermo for that. Having said that, there are some good accommodation options in this part of town too.
When you’re deciding on a place to stay in San Telmo, it’s important that you read reviews. Make sure that hotels and hostels have reviews from people who mention their safety or security credentials.
San Telmo is generally a safe neighborhood during the day (aside from the occasional pickpocket in crowded areas), but can be sketchy at night and you may want to avoid wandering around alone at night.
This is my selection of the best places to stay in San Telmo.
Luxury — Anselmo Buenos Aires, Curio Collection by Hilton
Anselmo Buenos Aires is a sophisticated accommodation option part of the Hilton hotel chain. Set in a historic building, guest rooms here are decorated in plush furnishings and make use of the building’s period features.
There’s a range of amenities to make full use of throughout, including a shared lounge, a cafe, and a bar; food here is made using local produce.
Midrange — L’Adresse Hôtel Boutique
L’Adresse Hotel Boutique is a beautifully curated four-star property that has carefully considered the history of the building in its interior design.
Rooms feature white-washed walls, polished wood floors, and large windows; some even come with their own balconies where you can look out over the neighborhood. It’s within walking distance to a number of main sights, while it also has the convenience of an onsite eatery and bar.
Budget — Circus Hostel
Circus Hostel goes above and beyond what you’d expect from budget accommodation in San Telmo. The rooms here are clean and well-maintained and range from a six-bed dorm to a private double room.
Location-wise, this hostel is close to San Telmo Market, with good transport connections and a number of eateries on the doorstep. After a busy day of exploring, you can return and enjoy a refreshing dip in the hostel’s private pool.
Don’t forget to also read my post, Where To Stay In Buenos Aires, if you’d like more recommendations and details.
So, Is San Telmo Worth Visiting?
Yes, San Telmo is definitely worth visiting! This district of Buenos Aires is packed with history, interesting attractions, and it’s a fantastic cultural hub.
If you love shopping, the Feria de San Telmo is a must-see: you will find any sort of trinket, leather goods, antiques. Likewise, if you want to try some of the best Argentine food, you will find lots of it at the indoor market.
In recent years, San Telmo has become increasingly more touristy: I noticed a change since my 2019 trip and the last one, in March, with many more souvenir shops than there used to be. Yet, it remains a nice area to explore no matter how long you are staying in Buenos Aires.
Further Readings
These other posts will be useful when planning your trip to Buenos Aires:
- A Guide To Palermo Buenos Aires: Best Things To Do
- Fantastic Day Trips From Buenos Aires
- The Best Way To Get From Ezeiza To Buenos Aires
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