The one to Laguna Esmeralda easily qualifies as the best hike in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia. It’s not a strenuous trek at all – it is fairly short and with very little ascent. The stunning scenery and the (other= challenges of the trail, however, make it one you will remember.
If you plan to just go on one hike when you visit Ushuaia, make sure it is this one.
Make sure to read my post What To See And Do In Ushuaia for more fun activities.
Laguna Esmeralda is a gorgeous glacier lake in Tierra del Fuego, less than 20 km (12 miles) from Ushuaia. It’s surrounded by the mighty Albino Glacier and the peaks of Las Torres and Cordón Toribio.
The lagoon can be accessed via a trail that goes through a lenga forest and then along the peat moss. It’s a much easier hike compared to many in Patagonia, such as that to Mount Fitz Roy or the hike to Laguna Torre in El Chalten. However, the very muddy terrain represents a bit of a challenge.
My post The Best Hikes In Patagonia highlights other hikes you shouldn’t miss during your Patagonia trip.
In this post, I will highlight all the information you need to prepare for a hike to Laguna Esmeralda, providing a lot of practical tips.
Hiking To Laguna Esmeralda
The starting point of the trail to Laguna Esmeralda is in Valle de Los Lobos, about 17 km (10.5 miles) east of Ushuaia, along Ruta 3, where you’ll see a small parking lot and a very clear sign pointing to the trail. You’ll have to follow the blue marks to get to the lagoon.
The initial part of the trail to Laguna Esmeralda goes through a beautiful, somewhat eerie lenga forest. You’ll be walking through the forest for roughly 45 minutes before getting to the river.
After a short while, you’ll enter the forest again. The trail through this part of the forest to Laguna Esmeralda is very easy to follow, though you have to pay attention as it is very muddy (it rains a lot in Tierra del Fuego, even during the summer months).
Once you cross this other bit of forest, you find yourself in the peat moss. I was glad to see on my second visit a month ago (a few years since my first trip to Ushuaia) that they have now built a boardwalk to make sure people don’t walk on the peat moss – which would be bad for the delicate peat moss, not to mention difficult to walk on.
After crossing the peat moss, you’ll have to walk up a hill. Once at the top, the view will finally open up for you to see Laguna Esmeralda in all its glory.
You will have to walk back from Laguna Esmeralda along the same trail, and it will take you just the same amount of time to get to the starting point at the parking lot.
Sights Along The Trail To Laguna Esmeralda
The sights along the trail to Laguna Esmeralda are gorgeous. You’ll first be crossing a beautiful lenga forest, which will lead you to a plain where the scenery finally opens up to incredible views of Tierra Mayor and Carbajal valleys. The surrounding mountains are not as tall as those of other parts of Patagonia, but the sight remains impressive all the same.
Right by the river you’ll get to see the beavers damn. They are impressive, but keep in mind these animals, which are not native to Tierra del Fuego, have done a lot of damage to its natural landscape and environment, threatening its primeval forests.
Once you cross the plains and the river you find yourself once again in the forest, until the moment you reach the peat moss.
Keep your eyes open and your mouth shut as you walk through the forest, trying to make as little noise as possible. Red foxes live in the forest and there are good chances you’ll encounter one!
At the peat moss, the view opens up once again: you’ll see a beautiful stream and the Albino Glacier and Cordón Toribio mountain in the background, and a small hill which you’ll have to climb to get to Laguna Esmeralda.
From the top of the hill, the views are simply spectacular: the water of the lagoon is of a splendid emerald color, and the surrounding mountains add to the beautiful landscape.
Depending on the weather (it can get very windy), you can also walk around the lagoon, on the trail along the shore. It takes around 30 minutes and the views are gorgeous too.
What To Expect When Hiking To Laguna Esmeralda
The hike to Laguna Esmeralda is not too challenging for anyone with a minimal level of fitness. There is a short ascending bit, but this is not where the real challenge is – in my opinion, it’s the muddy terrain that is the main challenge, and the wind (when blowing) can also be an obstacle.
In the past, the first time I visited, hikers would have to go through a massive field of peat moss.
Walking on it was a struggle, and there hardly was any way around it – I remember that it took me a good 45 minutes to cross the peat moss on the way to the lagoon, and another 45 minutes on the way back, and I was covered in mud from head to toe at the end of the hike.
Now, the local government has placed boardwalks over the peat moss, with the objective of protecting it. The wooden trail will allow you to walk through the peat moss, making this hike significantly easier (and not nearly as muddy) than it used to be.
Practical Information For Your Laguna Esmeralda Hike
Quick facts
OVERALL WALKING DISTANCE – 8.7 Km (5.4 miles).
OVERALL WALKING TIME – Between 4.5 and 5 hours, depending on how often you stop
ELEVATION GAIN – 252 meters (826.7 feet)
DIFFICULTY – Moderate
How to factor the Laguna Esmeralda hike in your Tierra del Fuego itinerary
The hike to Laguna Esmeralda is an easy half-day trip, so you can combine it with other activities in the area especially if you are visiting in the summer, when the days are really long.
For example, the first time I hiked Laguna Esmeralda I went in the afternoon, after a morning guided tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park.
I recommend this guided tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park that includes transportation from Ushuaia. It departs at 8:00 am and lasts four hours, leaving you plenty of time to get back to Ushuaia, have lunch and then head to Laguna Esmeralda for an afternoon hike.
You could also opt to hike in the morning, and then go on an afternoon boat tour along the Beagle Channel. In this case, tours depart at 3:00 pm so you’d have to head to Laguna Esmeralda nice and early to make it back to town in time for your cruise departure.
There are all sorts of cruises along the Beagle Channel. Most only last two or three hours, but if you want a more in-depth experience, I recommend opting for this longer cruise that also goes to Martillo Island, where there’s a penguin colony. It’s what I opted for both times I visited, and we also got to see whales during the navigation.
If you would rather not pack too much into your day, that’s also possible!
As I have said before, during the summer months there are a lot of hours of light in Tierra del Fuego, so you can even plan to take it very easy and, if the weather cooperates, have a proper picnic at the lagoon. The nice forest right at the edge of the lagoon provides a nice shelter for that.
Hiking to Laguna Esmeralda independently
The hike to Laguna Esmeralda can be done independently, as the trail is fairly easy to follow – just make sure to always keep an eye out for the blue marks once you are in the forest as, at times, they are not so visible.
I usually recommend not to hike alone, but there normally are quite a few people on this trail so you should always be able to get help if needed. Keep in mind, however, that there’s no phone reception at all once you enter the forest.
My post 11 Reasons Why Hiking Alone Is Actually A Bad Idea explains why it’s better to walk with someone, at all times.
Another thing to consider if you wish to hike independently is that you’ll need to arrange your own transportation to the trailhead and back.
Guided hikes to Laguna Esmeralda
If you prefer, you can also join a guided excursion. This will have the bonus of including transportation so you don’t have to worry about arranging an Uber from Ushuaia or looking for phone reception to call an Uber back to town.
I recommend this guided tour of Laguna Esmeralda which includes transportation from Ushuaia, a packed lunch and a hot drink too. The overall experience lasts six hours but that includes the commute from Ushuaia and plenty of stops to admire the view, rest and enjoy your lunch.
Getting to the trailhead
The first time I visited Ushuaia there used to be a shuttle service taking passengers from the center of Ushuaia to the parking lot in Valle de los Lobos, where the trailhead is located. It departed at regular times, and usually allowed four and a half hours to complete the hike and drive back to Ushuaia (the driver would specify the pick up time).
The service is no longer available, so this means that unless you have your own car, you’ll either have to join a guided tour from Ushuaia that includes pick up, or arrange your own transportation with an Uber or local taxi.
Getting an Uber or a taxi in Ushuaia is fairly easy, but as there is no reception along the trail (and hardly any in the trailhead), I recommend arranging a pickup time before you start your hike. Allow yourself around five hours to complete the hike.
Best time to hike to Laguna Esmeralda
There is no escaping the elements in Tierra del Fuego. On an average summer day, you may get strong winds, rain and at times even snow. And it can be cold!
Having said so, the best time of year to visit Tierra del Fuego is in the summer, between late October and the beginning of March, when the days are longer and the weather conditions less adverse. That’s when you should plan to hike to Laguna Esmeralda.
I recommend to spend a few days in Tierra del Fuego, as it is truly a magical place. If you have time, wait for a sunny day to hike to Laguna Esmeralda, or at least make sure it hasn’t rained heavily for a day or two, so that it’s not too muddy.
What to wear and carry for your Laguna Esmeralda hike
As I have already explained, the first consideration when planning to hike to Laguna Esmeralda is that the weather in Tierra del Fuego is hardly cooperative. Make sure to be properly equipped for rain, strong wind and even snow.
Here’s a list of essential items you should be wearing and/or carrying:
- A good daypack. I like Osprey Daylite Plus as it fits everything I need for just a day and sits nicely on my shoulders.
- A pair of excellent hiking boots. They need to be waterproof, as the terrain will be wet. I suggest you also wear a pair of galoshes for extra protection.
- Hiking pants. I like the Frost Softshell Pant by Kuhl. If you don’t want something quite as heavy weight, opt for the Trekr Pant.
- Unless your hiking pants are waterproof, you should also bring (and likely wear) a pair or rain pants. They will protect you from the rain, the strong wind and all the mud. I have a pair of Black Diamond rain pants and I am happy with their performance.
- A pair of thermal underwear. Yes – it can be that cold!
- A base layer such as Kuhl Akkomplice Krew
– it’s comfortable and lightweight. - A good fleece – I like Kuhl Ascendyr. I suggest you also take an extra one along, in case it snows.
- A warm jacket that’s light and easy to fold and pack in your backpack if you need to take a layer off. I like the SpyFire Hoody by Kuhl.
- A good wind and rain proof jacket to wear on top of all your layers. I have a Black Diamond Rain Jacket and it’s excellent.
- A beanie, a scarf and gloves.
- Sunscreen and lip balm.
- Sunglasses – you never know when the sun may come out.
- A camera. If you are not a photography geek, a smartphone with a good camera such as an iPhone will do. Make sure to take a power bank as well!
- Tissues or toilet paper and a good antibacterial hand gel. If your feet tend to blister, make sure to take compeed with you.
- Enough food and water for the hike, and an extra spare bag to put all your garbage.
My post What To Pack For Patagonia has an even more detailed packing list.
Food and drinks
There are no kiosks or places that sell food along the trail, so you’ll have to carry enough water and food for the duration of the hike.
Depending on the day, there is a small street food vendor in the parking lot by the trailhead, selling choripan (similar to a hot dog), empanadas, and cold drinks.
Other practical information
For the most part, this is an easy hike so it is also suitable for families with children (I saw several both times I hiked it).
Dogs aren’t allowed in Argentina National Parks. As Laguna Esmeralda is not part of Tierra del Fuego National Park, dogs are actually allowed on the trail, though I recommend you keep them on leash as there can be strays around.
There are no toilets or garbage bins along the way. Make sure to carry a bag to dispose of your garbage (that includes toilet paper) and take it back to town with you.
Have you hiked to Laguna Esmeralda?
Further Readings
If you are planning a trip to Argentina, make sure to check out my other posts:
- Best Things To Do In Argentina
- A Complete Guide To Perito Moreno Glacier
- 30 Things You Should Consider Before Traveling To Patagonia
- 25 Delicious Argentina Food To Try
- 35 Best Things To Do In Buenos Aires
- 11 Fantastic Day Trips From Buenos Aires
- A Complete Guide To Where To Stay In Buenos Aires
- Top 13 Things To Do In Rosario Argentina: An Insider’s Guide!
- The Best Argentine Movies
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Hi Claudia,
We hope you’re well during the pandemic. It was great to read your blog about Laguna Esmeralda. It helped us to reminisce about the hike we did there earlier in the year. We loved our trip to Ushuaia. Did you have a favourite hike that you did in Ushuaia?
We really enjoyed the Tierra del Fuego National Park. I think our favourite hike in Ushuaia was combining the Senda Costera trail with the Cerro Guanaco trail. Although Laguna Esmeralda wasn’t too far behind in terms of enjoyment!
Cheers, Dan & Beck from Travel Made Me Do It
Oh mine was by far the hike to Laguna Esmeralda! I loved the views, and the fact that a fox showed interest in my backpack definitely entertained me. BTW, have you seen the Magical Andes series on Netflix? It starts in Ushuaia. I saw it last night for the first time, and loved it!
A couple of things are already dated:
1) the shuttle price is up to ARS 5,000 return for 2023
2) no more slogging thru the peat – the wooden walkways you show have been replaced by new, stable ones with handrails – one really has to try to go astray
Additionally I’d suggest going as early as possible as much the trail gets churned into a muddy mess as the hundreds of daily tourists pass thru
Thanks!
Just an update to the cost of a taxi as of 1/20/2023: 16,000 ARS round trip from taxi hub. Shuttle pricing is roughly the same but with much less flexible timing. For 2 people the cost of a shuttle was 20,000 ARS round trip.
Noted and thank you!