Ushuaia Patagonia: few places on earth are so mysterious yet so charming. Argentinians call it “Fin del Mundo” – end of the world. And upon visiting, the impression you will have is really that of being at the end of the world, not so much geographically (though to be fair, this really is the southernmost city in the world), but in the emotional, psychological sense.
One of the main cities of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, Ushuaia is nothing special in and of itself. The city is nothing more than a messy series of less than charming buildings and steep roads between Beagle Channel and the Martial Mountains. But the surroundings are nothing short of amazing.
I visited Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego on my latest trip to Argentina, and inevitably and hopelessly fell in love with it, and hope to visit again as soon as possible.
In this post I highlight the best things to do in Ushuaia, and in its surroundings. I will also share some tips on how to make the most of Tierra del Fuego. Before I get to the juicy bits, however, I’ll share some background information about the city and the region.
Make sure to also read my post The Best Argentina Travel Tips.
A Few Interesting Facts About Ushuaia Patagonia
The archipelago of Tierra del Fuego is located at the southern tip of South America. The main island has the shape of a triangle and is separated by the mainland through the Strait of Magellan. The north of the main island is mostly lakes and moraines, whereas the southern and western part are a prolongation of the Andes mountain chain.
Magellan first landed in the archipelago in 1520, and named it Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire). Indeed, during his expedition he noticed smoke coming from the island (due to the fires lit by the indigenous people along the coast), thus first calling it Tierra de Humo (Land of Smoke) and then changing it to Tierra del Fuego.
It was only from the 1880s, when Thomas Bridge started his mission in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, that the area started being explored. Until then, the Ona and Yámana indigenous peoples that lived in this part of Patagonia continued living there undisturbed. It was only when gold was found in the region, and when it was deemed favorable for animal farming, that Chileans and Argentinians started having an interest in it.
Unfortunately, the contact with the increasing number of colonizers looking to hunt sea lions and in search of gold proved fatal the for indigenous peoples of Tierra del Fuego, who succumbed to the diseases carried by the foreigners. The last Yámana woman died in 2004.
Tierra del Fuego quickly became a penal colony, where the worst kind of criminals and political prisoners were held. The prison was moved to Ushuaia in 1906, but from 1950 Ushuaia, became an important naval base; furthermore, a lot of factories were established and last, but definitely not least, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, became a popular tourist destination.
Speaking of tourism, here are my suggestions for the things to do in Ushuaia.
15 Unmissable Things To Do In Ushuaia, Patagonia
Get off the beaten path at Cabo San Pablo
Not many people visit Cabo San Pablo during their trip to Ushuaia – and they are missing out. I was one of a whopping four when I went, and in a way I hope it remains undiscovered. To be fair, I had never even heard of this place until Ignacio, one of the masterminds behind Tierra Turismo (allegedly the best tour company in Ushuaia) recommended a visit. He was right: this is one of the most unique, beautiful places in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.
Cabo San Pablo faces the Atlantic Ocean, giving way to a long pebble beach that is swept by the strong Patagonian wind. The landscape is unique, mysterious and eerie. The wildlife beautiful, with lenga forests giving way to the steppe, and guanacos populating the area.
Once at Cabo San Pablo, you can hike up to reach an old lighthouse, which was built in 1945 and bent by an earthquake in 1949 – a new lighthouse that operates automatically was placed nearby in 1966.
The views from up there are absolutely breathtaking: on one side, the long pebble beach; on the other a sandy one where you’ll find the huge wreck of Desdemona, a large cargo ship made in Germany and carrying the Dutch flag that wrecked in 1983. It’s easy to see why visiting Cabo San Pablo is one of the most incredible things to do in Ushuaia.
Practical information about Cabo San Pablo
Cabo San Pablo is located at 182 km from Ushuaia. It takes a good 2 hours and 45 minutes to get to this isolated promontory, following Ruta 3 and going through Garibaldi Pass, right by Lake Escondido.
The only company that organizes guided day trips to Cabo San Pablo is Tierra Turismo. This is a full day tour, with various stops throughout the day, including one at Tolhuin, where you’ll have the chance to fuel up at La Unión bakery (a rather quirky bakery with a very interesting history); one at Cabo San Pablo with a short hike to the lighthouse; one at Desdemona ship wreck; and a final one at Estancia Rolito (more about it below). The tour tour includes snacks, lunch and drinks.
Make sure to wear hiking boots, a good wind and rainproof jacket and sunglasses and to carry some extra water for the day.
Learn about the life of an estancia
One of the nicest things to do in this part of the country is getting to know the local culture and way of life. Tierra del Fuego, much like the rest of Patagonia, is vastly used for animal farming, with locals claiming that the best lamb in the world is produced there. Farms in Argentina are known as “estancias,” which literally translates as “stay” and refers to the concession granted by the government to use a piece of land for a certain amount of time.
I wholeheartedly recommend visiting an estancia as part of your trip. The most popular one in the area is Estancia Haberton, which was founded in 1886 by Thomas Bridges and is the oldest building in the region. Nowadays, however, this estancia is mostly a tourist attraction, with very little animal farming. That’s why I decided not to visit, and opted to go to Estancia Rolito instead.
Estancia Rolito is a family run farm in a gorgeous setting, surrounded by a beautiful lenga forest, which is perfect for hiking. You can stop by for lunch, for tea (or better, mate!) or even sleep there.
I stopped for little over one hour and the welcoming owners Pepe (senior and junior) and Annie took me for a walk around the property and explained the charm and challenges of living in such an isolated place – the main one appears to be that of dogs that roam around Patagonia and attack sheep (to the point that some farms, including Rolito, facing so much damage and financial loss, switched to farming cows).
Estancia Rolito can be visited as part of Tierra Turismo tour to Cabo San Pablo.
If you’d rather visit Estancia Haberton, consider joining this guided tour.
Visit Tierra del Fuego National Park
Tierra del Fuego National Park is a huge park – more than 630 square km, that extends from the Beagle Channel to Fagnano Lake (also called Cami Lake). However, only 200 hectares are open to the public, on the southern side of the park.
This is probably the most touristy place to visit in Ushuaia, yet a must see because it simply is marvelous. Here you’ll find the typical vegetation of this part of the world, and various species of animals and birds, including guanacos, grey and red foxes, seagulls, cormorants, albatross, and even kelp goose.
Among the most common species there are the European rabbit and the north American beaver, non-native species that have had a serious impact to the delicate local ecosystem, to the point that the local authorities are researching various solutions to eradicate them.
Tierra del Fuego National Park is where Ruta 3 (which basically is the Pan-American) finishes, right in Lapataia Bay. The view from the bay is stunning, but you’ll get an even better view if you walk up to the Mirador Lapataia, following the trail that goes through the forest. Another must see is the Acigami Lake, and the Southernmost Post Office – a tiny post office that has been run by the same man for decades.
Speaking of trails, inside Tierra del Fuego National Park you’ll find a series of easy to medium difficulty hiking trails.
Check out my post 15 Amazing National Parks In Argentina.
Practical information about Tierra del Fuego National Park
It currently costs $2100 Argentinian Pesos (ARS) to enter Tierra del Fuego National Park. If you visit on two consecutive days, it’s half price on the second day.
Getting to Tierra del Fuego National Park
There are regular buses that connect Ushuaia to Tierra del Fuego National Park. They leave regularly from the bus station located at the corner between Maipú and Juana Faidul, in front of the gas station. Make sure to ask for the pick up times to get back to town.
Another way to get to the national park is by riding the Fin del Mundo train, but keep in mind the station from where this leaves, at regular hours, is located 8 km (5 miles) west of the city and you’ll need a taxi to get there.
On a guided tour
If you are short on time and still want to make the most of Tierra del Fuego National Park you can go on a guided small group tour. I went with Tierra Turismo and had a great guide that provided excellent background information and took me to all the best places.
There are no garbage bins around the park, which is pristine. Make sure to carry a bag to dispose of your waste, and do not abandon it anywhere at the park.
Do not feed the wild animals, and don’t take your pets with you: pets can’t access national parks in Argentina.
Patagonia is hiking galore, and I had my share of fun walking the many trails of this part of Argentina. There’s little doubt that one of the best things to do in Ushuaia is hiking. I can’t possibly mention all the hikes in the region – there are are so many! I have done a few though, and enjoyed them all.
One of the best hikes is the one to Río Larsifashaj waterfall. It’s a short walk with very little incline that takes a total of around two hours, first going through the fields of Estancia Haberton (which however, is very distant from the trail), then along the river and through the forest, and finally takes to a very scenic waterfall. The best bit (aside from the incredible landscape, obviously) is that this is a very unknown trail and you won’t meet other people during the hike.
Keep in mind that the starting point of the trail to Río Larsifashaj waterfall is not marked. In fact, the area where the trail is located is private land and you need special permission to trespass. I did this hike as part of the crab fishing guided tour run by Tierra Turismo.
Another incredible hike in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, is the one to Laguna Esmeralda. The trail starts right off Ruta 3, around 17 km (10.5 miles) east of Ushuaia. It’s a well marked trail (you have to follow the blue marks) that runs for about 8 km (about 5 miles) along through a gorgeous forest inhabited by red foxes and along the river, and during which you’ll have to go through a huge peat moss. Once you get close to the lagoon, the view is incredible. It takes around 4 hours to complete the hike.
Private shuttles run at regular times between Ushuaia, departing from the parking lot by the gas station, and the starting point of the trail to Laguna Esmeralda. The round trip costs around $800 ARS. Make sure to bring enough water for the duration of the hike, and food if you plan to eat there.
For a guided hike to Laguna Esmeralda which includes transportation from Ushuaia, click here.
Check out my post A Complete Guide To Hiking Laguna Esmeralda.
Another great place to go hiking is Tierra del Fuego National Park, which is packed with good hiking trails of various difficulties, and you can even mix and match various trails and walk them on the same day.
Senda del Torbal, in the national park, is an easy trail of about 1 km (0.6 miles) that goes through the peat moss, whereas the Senda Castorera (beaver trail) goes to small lakes where it’s possible to view the massive dams built by beavers.
Among the best hiking trails in Tierra del Fuego National Park there is the Senda Costera (Coastal Trail), whose access point is Ensenada Zaratiegui and which goes all the way to Acigami Lake. It’s a 8 km (5 miles) trail that takes around 4 hours, along which you may see some conchales, piles of seashells left by the Yámana of high archeological value.
If you are up for a bit of a workout, one of the things to do in Ushuaia is hiking the trail to Cerro Guanaco: this is the hardest hike in the park, as it’s a steady uphill walk. It’s a 4 km trail (plus 4 km to go back along the same trail, so a total of 8 km or 5 miles)) which take roughly 4 hours.
The main access point is from Senta Hito XXIV, another trail that goes along Acigami Lake until the border with Chile. Cerro Guanaco trail goes all the way to the viewpoint, from where there is an incredible view of the mountains and the peat moss.
The weather in Tierra del Fuego is very unpredictable. On an average summer day you are likely to get wind and rain, and chances are that it will be cold. Trails tend to be muddy, and if you hike to Laguna Esmeralda you’ll be crossing the peat moss with high probability of getting mud up to your knees.
Make sure to wear a pair of very good, waterproof hiking boots; a good ski jacket over which you can wear a wind proof one (you can take a layer off as you warm up). I also recommend not to hike alone – though mind you, on trails like that to Laguna Esmeralda and the ones in the national park you are bound to meet other people.
Check out my post 11 Reasons Why Hiking Alone Is Actually A Bad Idea.
Finally, make sure not to leave any garbage behind. Tierra del Fuego is pristine, and it’d be great if it continued staying this way.
Ride the Fin del Mundo train
One of the most touristy things to do is riding the Tren del Fin del Mundo. This steam train was originally meant to carry prisoners from the city to the work camps. As I have previously said, the station from where the train leaves is at about 8 km (5 miles) west of town. The ride lasts around 1 hour and you also get a basic commentary in English and Spanish.
The price of a ride starts at $7800 ARS for adults, to which you’ll have to add the fee to get inside the national park. As it gets packed in high season, you are better off booking the ride in advance. You can do so here.
Go on a boat tour along Beagle Channel
There is no doubt that one of the main appeals of Ushuaia is the possibility of admiring the incredible marine life of the Beagle Channel. Thus, one of the best things to do in Ushuaia is going on a cruise along the Channel.
During the cruise, you get to see various species of birds such as seagulls and cormorants; a huge amount of sea lions; a large penguins colony with Magellan and even Gentoo penguins (they are the ones with yellow paws and beak) and, on a lucky day, even whales (depending on the season).
Cruises along the Beagle Channel depart regularly from Ushuaia tourist harbor and can last anything between 2 and a half and 8 hours, depending on the itinerary and the amount of stops along the way. The cruise I did lasted 4.5 hours and stopped at Isla de los Pájaros (Birds’ Island); Isla de los Lobos (Sea lions’ Island); Les Eclaireurs lighthouse and Isla Mirtillo, which is a penguins’ rockery.
The price of the cruise varies depending on its duration. Whatever tour you do, you’ll have to add a small tourist fee.
Please note that only one company has permission to land at Isla Mirtillo to get even closer to the penguins. Frankly, I don’t see the need to disturb and even scare these lovely animals – you get to see them very well from the boat, which stops long enough for plenty of photo opportunities.
Check out my post on the use of animals in tourist attractions.
Even in the summer months, Tierra del Fuego is very cold, with temperatures ranging from 0 to 10 or 12 at most. While the boat is nice and warm inside, it’s very cold outside and the chances of rain are high. Make sure to dress appropriately, and wear a good ski jacket and gloves. If you tend to get seasick, make sure to take some motion sickness tablets with you.
The photo opportunities on a Beagle Channel Cruise are endless. Make sure to take a good camera with a good lense (I recommend a 70 – 300 mm as a minimum).
Fish for king crabs
King crab is known in Tierra del Fuego as centolla. This part of the world has incredible, high quality fish and seafood, and several restaurants in Ushuaia specialize in serving dishes made with locally sourced fish.
However, if you want a full local experience I recommend to actually go fishing for centollas, and then eat the ones you manage catching. It’s a fun, chilled experience: you get on a small boat that goes along the Beagle Channel and throw in the traps, and wait for the crabs to get in. Meanwhile, you may have even be able to admire whales as they pass by the channel.
Once you catch the centollas, you go back to the fisherman house, where you can sit for one of the most delicious meals of fresh seafood, accompanied by excellent Argentinian wines.
While finding good restaurants that serve centollas is easy in Ushuaia, the same can’t be said about the fishing experience. Tierra Turismo cooperates with a small family run company located around 15 km (little over 9 miles) from Puerto Almanza, the southernmost fishing port in Argentina. The same family has a tiny restaurant in Puerto Pirata.
The tour is the same one that goes to Río Larsifashaj waterfall.
Visit the local museums
To get a bit of background information about Udshuaia’s history, economy and environment is visiting the local museums – not to mention, this is the best way to keep entertained when the weather doesn’t allow outdoors excursions.
Museo Maritimo and Museo del Presidio is located in the prison that, until 1947, hosted up to 380 inmates. The various rooms illustrate what life in the prison used to be like. There’s also a part that’s dedicated to models of the most famous ships.
Museo Yamana is actually quite small, but it’s a great place get a better understanding of the indigenous peoples that once inhabited Tierra del Fuego. Here, you can find out how the Yamana managed to survive the adverse weather conditions despite being naked, or why only the women could swim and how they managed to keep a fire going inside a navigating canoe.
Museo del Fin del Mundo is in a building that dates back to 1903 and until 1979 the local branch of Banco de la Nación was located there. It was then turned into a small museum which provided some insights into the natural history of Tierra del Fuego.
Walk to Martial Glacier
There is little doubt that Ushuaia is one of the most expensive places to visit in Argentina. One of the nicest things to do in Ushuaia that is also free is walking to Martial Glacier, which is very close to the city. From there, you’ll have splendid views of the city, the surrounding mountains and even Beagle Channel. The trail gets all the way below the glacier –it’s not spectacular as Perito Moreno, but a beautiful sight all the same.
To get to the trail that goes all the way to Martial Glacier and Cerro Martial, you have the option of either getting a taxi (it’s a fairly short ride), get a bus that departs at the corner between Maipú and Juana Fadul. You can even walk there – it’s a 40 minutes walk.
Go to Lago Escondido and Lago Fagnano
Two of the nicest places near Ushuaia are lakes. Lago Escondido (literally “Hidden Lake”) is a beautiful sight. It’s located at the base of Garibaldi Pass and it is a fantastic location for hiking, canoeing or even fishing. Fagnano lake is of glacier origins and it is shared between Chile and Argentina.
You can join a soft adventure guided tour that goes to both lake and includes short treks along the lakes and canoeing in their clear waters. A few companies run this tour. I recommend the one run by Tierra Turismo, which has small groups and a strong focus on sustainability. You can book it here.
Admire the most incredible sunrise
I have already explained how Tierra del Fuego got its name. Aside from the historical version, there is a more romantic one according to which the word “fire” in the name refers to the incredible color of the sky at sunrise on a clear day. Needless to say, I wholeheartedly recommend setting your alarm clock early enough to see the sun rise above the water. It’s one of the most beautiful things to do in Ushuaia.
Shop at Paseo de los Artesanos
Of all the things to do in Ushuaia, shopping is hardly the first one that comes to mind. However, if you are looking for the odd souvenir, head to Paseo de los Artesanos. It’s located next to the port and the tourism information office, and there you’ll find anything from paintings to leather goods; from ceramics to smaller trinkets.
Have a proper Asado Fuengino
Having a good asado fuengino – a mixed grill of several kinds of meat, usually including beef Patagonian lamb, and at times even pork – is one of the things to do in Ushuaia. Many restaurants in Ushuaia serve it. Yet, any proper Argentinian would tell you that there is nothing like having a good, home made asado – where local cuts of meat are used, rather than those sold to restaurants.
I have tried both, and enjoyed both. But if I had to pick one I’d go for the home made one.
A good home made asado fuengino is not only a culinary experience, where cuts of meat that generally don’t make it to the restaurants but are just as delicious are grilled on a barbecue. It is, more than anything else, a social one. Locals don’t take their meat and each eat from their plate; rather, meat is served on a wooden tray placed at the center of the table and everyone gets to pick it from there.
Argentinians typically eat their beef “jugoso” (juicy). To most of us, this would mean beef that is anything from rare to medium rare. To Argentinians, it means beef that is almost entirely cooked through yet remains soft and juicy. The reasoning in cooking meat more than we normally would is that the quality is incredible and the beef remains soft even when cooked longer.
Eating is one of the top things to do in Ushuaia, and finding good food there is not a challenge. Prices are generally reasonable. The places I mention below are all approved by me – quite possibly the pickiest eater on earth.
Rincon Gourmet – outside of the center, in a neighborhood called Andorra, a chef turned part of his house in what may well be the coziest restaurant in town. There, he serves a variety of excellent dishes cooked with local ingredients and paired with fantastic wines. It’s not cheap, but it’s a must for foodies.
Ramos Generales – located on Maipú, one of the main streets in town, it’s a very popular eatery among locals and tourists. The in-house bakery sells fresh bread, croissants and other pastries, making it an excellent option for breakfast. The lunch menu is very varied.
Viejo Marino – also located on Maipú, it’s the best choice in town if you like fresh fish or seafood. Portions are huge, and prices fair, thus making it favorite of locals and tourists. It’s a good place to try centolla, either plain or in a variety of different ways. The staff is very friendly, the service quick and the environment easygoing. There often is a line for a table, but you can put your name down and the staff will give you an estimate of waiting time. Meanwhile, you can go have a beer at the nearby The Birra.
Check out my post 25 Delicious Argentina Food To Try.
Try local beer
Few things taste better than a good beer after a day of hiking, and one of the best things to do in Ushuaia after a day of wandering around is having a good pint. Tierra del Fuego has its very own local beer, called Beagle. Several places in town serve the bottled version, and a few have the draft one. The best place to try a good Beagle is The Birra, a small pub, fairly priced. The bonus? They play good classic rock in the background.
Practical Information About Ushuaia
Where to stay in Ushuaia
There is an abundance of places to stay in Ushuaia, but they are generally a bit overpriced for what they offer. Here is a small selection of places I recommend:
- Oshovia is a good boutique hostel with excellent dorms and comfortable private rooms. Click here for the latest rates.
- Ushuaia Drake Departamentos is an excellent option if you prefer self catering. Click here for the latest rates.
- Galeazzi Basily is a nice bed and breakfast. They even have a few bungalows. Click here for the latest rates.
- Las Hayas Ushuaia Resort is the best hotel in town. The views of the bay from there are spectacular. Click here for the latest rates.
- Hostel Yakush is another excellent budget option. Click here for the latest rates.
When to visit Ushuaia
The best time of year to visit Ushuaia is in the late spring and summer months, thus between late October and the beginning of April. Even then, the temperatures tend to be cold, and there are high chances of rain and, at times, even snow (it did snow for a few hours when I visited at the end of February).
In the winter months, Tierra del Fuego is one of the best places to go skiing in Argentina.
How long to stay in Ushuaia
I remember years ago, during my first trip to Argentina, someone told me that Ushuaia is nothing special. We may have been to a different place, as Tierra del Fuego easily qualifies as one of the most scenic, beautiful places I have ever visited.
I spent 5 days in Tierra del Fuego and I could have easily stayed longer to visit more places, do more hikes, explore the surroundings and, quite simply, to soak the incredible local atmosphere.
My recommendation, especially if you like hiking, is to plan to stay at least 5 days, possibly even 7 or more, so that you can make the most of all the things to do in Ushuaia and have higher chances of getting at least a day of clear weather conditions.
How to get in and around Ushuaia
The best way to travel to Ushuaia is by plane. The Aeropuerto Internacional Malvinas Argentinas has daily direct flights to Buenos Aires and El Calafate operated by Aerolinas Argentinas, and weekly flights to other locations in Patagonia.
There are regular daily and weekly buses that connect Ushuaia to Punta Arenas (18 hours) and Puerto Natales, in Chile. If you are traveling from El Calafate, you have to change buses in Rio Gallegos. Keep in mind that Ushuaia is on an island and there will be a ferry crossing. Therefore, adding to the long bus hours there may be delays due to the rough sea conditions.
Moving around Ushuaia
Alternatively, you can count on a good local and medium distance bus system, and on the regular shuttles that connect the city to the most important attractions in Tierra del Fuego.
Taxis are easily available in town. There is a small taxi station where all drivers park and stay in between rides on Maipú, not far from the tourist port. There even are a few remis, local cab companies.
Guided tours in Ushuaia
Guided tours are an excellent way to visit Ushuaia and its surroundings, provided that you do them with the right company. Right by the tourist port you’ll find the vast majority of tour companies that go to the most popular places in Tierra del Fuego. If you fancy something more off the beaten path and prefer smaller groups, get in touch with Tierra Turismo (unlike most companies, it doesn’t have an office at the harbor). This small company has a strong focus on sustainability and in supporting small local businesses. Guides are excellent.
Most businesses in Ushuaia accept credit card payment. Some only take cash – when that’s the case, you’ll see a notice at the door. There are several ATMs scattered around Ushuaia, but there is a withdrawal limit of $6000 ARS and regardless of the amount you withdraw you have to pay a fee of around $350 ARS.
Other useful information
Though the health care system is excellent in Argentina, I recommend you purchase a good travel insurance for your visit to Ushuaia.
You can find an excellent one here.
Make sure to pack appropriately for your trip to Tierra del Fuego, carrying a good ski jacket or winter coat (yes, even if you visit in the summer); a rain and wind proof jacket; beanie, scarf and gloves; fleece and thermal underwear; hiking pants and good waterproof hiking boots.
If you are planning a trip to Argentina, the following posts will come in handy:
- A Guide To The Greatest Things To Do In Argentina
- A Flash Pack’s Argentina Itinerary
- 32 Unmissable Things To Do In Buenos Aires
- 11 Fantastic Day Trips From Buenos Aires
- A Complete Guide To Where To Stay In Buenos Aires
- Top 13 Things To Do In Rosario Argentina: An Insider’s Guide!
- Hiking In Patagonia: 16 Incredible Trails
- A Guide To Hiking Around Fitz Roy, In El Chalten
- A Complete Guide To Hiking To Laguna Torre
- A Complete Guide To Perito Moreno Glacier
- 30 Things You Should Consider Before Traveling To Patagonia
- Hiking Gear And More: The Perfect Patagonia Packing List
- The Best Argentine Movies
Legal Disclaimer: I was a guest of Tierra Turismo during my visit to Ushuaia Patagonia, and I wish to thank them for the incredible experiences and for taking me to the most unique locations in Tierra del Fuego.
Needless to say, all the opinions expressed in this post are honest and without any bias. I also wish to personally thank Ignacio Ronco, the mastermind behind Tierra Turismo, for taking me around, teaching me so much about the local culture and way of life, and more than anything else for welcoming me into his life as if I was family.